Autumn potions

Autumn is probably my favourite season. It is a sweet transition between the often unbearably hot summer weather and the usually severe cold, wintery conditions. This transition is best depictured in the Ancient Greek myth of goddess Demetra and her daughter Persephone.

According to the myth, Hades, god of Underworld and the dead, “steals” Persephone from her mother Demetra, marries her and anoints her Queen of the Underworld. Then, Hades proceeds to an agreement with Demetra, according to which Persephone will spend 6 months of a year in her mother’s arms on Earth and 6 months by her husband’s side in Underworld eternally.

Joseph-The-Elder-Heintz-The-Rape-of-Proserpina.es.wahooart.com via es.wahooart.com

The rape of Persephone. Joseph Heintz. 1595. Gemaeldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Germany.

Breaking down the myth, Demetra and Persephone symbolize vegetation, crops and Hades death, absence. The myth basically narrates the end of cultivation and growing season for 6 months, during which Persephone has descended to the Underworld. This is Autumn’s starting point!

As we are getting ready for the opulent warmth of furs, spicier meals, fireplaces, excessive consumption of chocolate and other sources of warmth and coziness, the scents of neroli, tuberose and sparkling citruses, feel more and more irrelevant.

Today, I present you some carefully selected scents that would dress perfectly your days and nights for the following months.

MAGNETIC SCENT- UNTITLED 2 (2012)

untitled2_head

Personality

Have you ever drunk Karak tea or Masala chai? Do you remember the sugared- creamy spices that instantly carried you away? This is what happens in Untitled 2 case too… Warm and spicy in a moment, sweet and mellow in another; I cannot think of any better scent to accompany the first rainy afternoons with.

History

Spyros Drosopoulos, the captain behind Magnetic Scents’ wheel, loved masala chai that much, that decided to create a wearable recipe! The perfume belongs to the “Untitled” collection of the brand, leaving its aura to imply more than a name would.

Composition

Masala Chai, Cacao, Rose, Milk, Vanilla.

Untitled 2 comes as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for 110Euro.

SERGE LUTENS- ROUSSE (2007)

Rousse

Personality

If Rousse was a sweet, it would be an apple pie. If it was a material, it would be brick from clay and if it was a colour, it would be copper. Rousse smells sweet spices and specifically sweet cinnamon and cloves. It is intense yet refreshing and I liked mostly wearing its after numerous cold morning showers. Downside is its average longevity.

History

Rousse is a Christopher Sheldrake creation. I had bought Rousse a year after its launch in a 50ml regular Serge Lutens bottle. Overtime, Rousse did not have the expected feedback and centrals decided to withdraw its version from market and pour it in Bell Jar bottles from Luten’s Palais Royal Exclusive line, ever since.

Composition

Cinnamon, cloves, resin, amber, cedar, mandarin.

Rousse is available as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 140 Euro.

THIERRY MUGLER- MIROIR DES VOLUPTES (2010)

miroir des voluptes

Personality

Miroir des Voluptes is a perfume with double identity, as if you deal with a person you knew for quite a while but having not seen that other side of him. Behind the big picture, there is a small surprise hiding. Miroir de Voluptes has a complex yet mainstream scent with an impressive alteration in it that changes everything: a sparkling oud. In my opinion, it could be crafted in a better way and with less synthetic ingredients. However, I included it in my list because of the choice of notes, the less -than other perfumes of its league- vulgar oud and its strong trail. Among the awful trend of “plastic” oud perfumes that have filled up perfumery, I find Miroir des Voluptes a decent oud perfume despite all its flaws.

History

Miroir des Voluptes is the 6th entry in Mugler’s exclusive Mirror Mirror Collection and was created by Nathalie Lorson and Daphne Bugey.

This Mugler fragrance is almost exclusive to the Middle Eastern- Gulf market. It can be found in almost all Gulf beauty shops and airports. For international buyers, try out Thierry Mugler’s online boutique.

Composition

Top notes: Bulgarian Rose, African orange flower.

Middle Notes: Oud, Tobacco.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood.

Miroir des Voluptes is available as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for Dhs550 or $150 in Mugler’s online store.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER- GAULTIER² (2005)

jean-paul-gaultier-gaultier2-eau-de-parfum-120ml

Personality

Gaultier² is a smart composition with a very sexy scent. Though belonging to the mass production and its ingredients are more or less over worn, Gaultier² is nicely done and constructed in a way like being almost exclusive. Deep amber and bitter vanilla courtship endlessly in this long lasting, sensual fragrance.

History

Created by Francis Kurkdjian, Gaultier² is a unisex-marketed perfume that truly appeals to all.

Composition

Vanilla, Amber, Musk

Gaultier² is available as Eau de Parfum in 40ml and 120ml. The range involves shower gel and body lotion as well.

HERMÈS- TERRE D’ HERMÈS (2006)

TERRE-D'HERMES-1

Personality

Terre is undoubtedly a men’s perfume with personality and both its legs on the ground. It is very earthy, fresh, lightweight scent that matches all occasions; from office to first dates. It has a sweet-spicy vetiver hint that reminds me a better Tom Ford’s “Grey Vetiver” version. What I mostly sniff from this beauty is: orange, vetiver and cedar. For a detailed review, check this video by fellow blogger and perfume specialist Pelle Suringa, aka Geurenland heer.

History

Jean-Claude Ellena, who has been the exclusive In-house perfumer for Hermès since 2004, crafted Terre in 2006.

Composition

Top notes: Grapefruit, Orange.

Middle Notes: Pepper, Pelargonium.

Heart Notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedar, Benzoin.

Terre is available as Parfum in 80ml for $120 and 200ml for $215, and as Eau de Toilette in 50ml for $79, in 100ml for $110 and 200ml for $178. The complete range involves shampoo, shaving Foam, after-shave balsam, after-shave lotion and deodorant stick.

ROUGE BYNNY ROUGE- EMBERS (2013)

Embers RBR

Personality

I sniff a success story here! Embers will be popular for its richness and how well it “cooked”. All the notes compliment each other perfectly and leave one want more… Initially you get spices shock with cloves and nutmeg that transforms into a balsamic and soothing trail. Personally, my favourite out of all Rouge Bunny Rouge creations.

History

Embers belongs to the second line of unisex perfumes launched by Rouge Bunny Rouge, called “Provenance Tales”, including also perfumes Cynefin and Silvan. The “nose” behind he entire collection is Alexandra De Montfort, creator of the brand. “Provenance Tales” debuts in October 2013.

Composition

Top notes: Cloves, Nutmeg, Pink Pepper.

Middle Notes: Labdanum, Jasmine, Freesia, Incense.

Heart Notes: Styrax, Peru balsam, Woody notes.

Embers comes as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for 97Euro.

CHANEL- ÉGOÏSTE (1990)

Egoiste Chanel

Personality

Simply irresistible, it is a scent that separates men from the boys! Égoïste is a timeless perfume that enchants nevertheless. It is a character full of various light woods, showered in tobacco and spices throughout its longevity. It would be perfect for rainy evenings in all occasions.

History

Égoïste was created on 1990 by Jacques Polge, head perfumer at Chanel since 1978.

Composition

Top notes: Coriander, Brazilian rosewood, Mahogany, Sicilian mandarin.

Middle Notes: Damask rose, Cinnamon, Carnation.

Heart Notes: Amber, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Leather.

Égoïste comes as Eau de Toilette in 100ml for $84.

CHRISTIAN DIOR- HYPNOTIC POISON (1998)

Hypnotic poison CD

Personality

Confession: Hypnotic Poison was my very first fragrance in full bottle ever since it was launched (yes I was too young) and my signature scent for years! It didn’t happen to me not to get a compliment about it every time I was wearing it and I have classified it as men’s “trap”. It has fruity opening and a prominent creamy plummy note -classifying it as Fall scent- that plays around with vanilla and sandalwood and gives a long lasting and very seductive result. Highly recommended for sensual situations…

History

This mythical creation, by Annick Menardo in 1998 was the 3rd addition to Dior’s “Poison” collection. Hypnotic Poison turned out though to be the most successful “Poison” of all.

Composition

Top notes: Plum, Coconut, Apricot.

Middle Notes: Brazilian rosewood, jasmine, caraway, tuberose, rose, lily-of the valley.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk, Almond.

Hypnotic Poison comes as Extrait in 7,5 ml  for 107 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 47Euro, in 50ml for 66Euro and in100ml for 94Euro and in a couple of Eau versions. The range also includes shower gel and moisturizing lotion and deodorant spray.

PRADA- AMBER WOMEN (2004)

Prada Amber women

Personality

Amber for women is a perfume true to its name: filled with amber. A sweet, balsamic amber that is perfect for Fall. The scent is light and wearable throughout the day. It opens boldly with green, bergamot and amber but gets smoother soon after, when musk and vanilla get more prominent.  As with all Prada perfumes  Amber is also not very long lasting.

History

Amber is Prada’s first attempt to penetrate into international boudoirs. Up to that point Prada had launched only three perfumes exclusively though its boutiques. Amber was launched in 2004 and was created by Carlos Benaim, Max Gavarry and Clement Gavarry.

Composition

Top notes: Green notes, Tarragon, Fruity notes, Bergamot.

Middle Notes: Rose, Ylang-ylang, Carnation, Honey, Jasmine.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla.

Prada Amber comes as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 48,50 Euro, 50ml for 78,50 Euro and 80ml for 102,50 Euro. There also are bath gel, body lotion and soaps.

PRADA- AMBER MEN (2006)

Prada men

Personality

Such an original and enchanting scent! Absolutely a head turning perfume, which fits nicely the cool and warm days of Autumn. Amber for men is aromatic with a hint of spice from saffron and a beautiful balsamic-soapy trail mostly due to the musk-vanilla-leather-myrrh mix. Tonka bean and vetiver play also their part in the creation, but from backstage. Amber as a name is misleading as there is none in the ingredients.

History

Launched in 2006, there is an oxymoron fact about Amber pour Homme: it was created by two women! Successful perfumer Daniela Roche Andrier and Prada’s CEO Miuccia Prada, played around accords, they decided what they wanted to smell like if they were men and they crafted Amber, as Miuccia confessed.

Composition

Top notes: Neroli, Mandarin, Bergamot, Cardamom.

Middle Notes: Myrrh, Geranium, Vetiver, Musk, Orange blossom.

Heart Notes: Saffron, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Patchouli, Labdanum, Leather, Tonka bean.

Prada Amber comes as Eau de Toilette in 50ml for 60,50 Euro and 100ml for 81,90 Euro. There are also available travel sized flacons in a special packaging of 3 in 10ml each. The range also includes shower gel and after-shave balm.

HUGO BOSS- BOSS BOTTLED (1998)

Hugo_Boss-Boss_Bottled

Personality

I decided to include Boss Bottled in this list of perfumes because it is the rare case of a mass production perfume that succeeded to impress me with its aroma. It is very refreshing and smells mostly of vanilla and woods. It is super easy to wear all day long, though its longevity is weak and suits pretty much all ages.

History

Boss Bottled is another beautiful creation by Annick Menardo, also launched in 1998.

Composition

Top notes: Plum, Geranium, Lemon, Bergamot, Apple, Oakmoss.

Middle Notes: Cinnamon, Carnation, Mahogany.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Cedar, Vanilla, Vetiver, Olive tree.

Boss Bottled is available as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 35 Euro, 50ml for 47 Euro, 100ml for 62 Euro and 200ml for 71 Euro and in two more versions: Night and Sport. The range includes after-shave lotion in two sizes, after-shave balm, shower gel, deodorant stick and deodorant spray.

NASOMATTO- DURO (2011)

duro-2007-30-ml-0135-floz-1

Personality

There is nothing feminine about Duro. Duro is a man whose aura tames before his presence. It deserved to be worn by men with confidence and “fist”. The fragrance has great longevity and is full of woods, mostly agarwood that stands out, even if not mentioned in the ingredients’ list.

History

Duro is a fragrance made by Alessandro Gualtieri, the maestro behind all Nasomatto fragrances.

Composition

Leather, Spices, Woody notes.

Duro comes as Extrait de Parfum in 30 ml for 108 Euro or in a 4 ml roller bottle for 38 Euro.

TOM FORD- ARABIAN WOOD (2009) 

Arabian wood

Personality

I had underestimated Arabian Wood for years, until I tested it again few weeks ago, seeking for Autumn-y scents. This is such a chameleonic scent! It twists and alters its own skin several times throughout wearing it. I included it in Autumn potions because its nature is similar to the seasonal transitions, so you could wear it in a day that experiences both sun and rain.

Do not let the preconception dictating that all Arabic perfumes must contain oud or heavy woods to fool you. I have came across Arabic juices fresher than spring! Having said that Arabian Wood fills in the category with its light woody-mossy notes, which transform into powdery-flowery during the chameleonic hours. Longevity-wise is not perfect, as it fades after few hours, however the hour that stays on, definitely performs in its grandiosity.

History

Arabian Wood belongs to the Private Blend Collection and was launched as part of the second batch of perfumes for the collection in 2008 regionally, in the Middle East and internationally a year later.

Composition

Woody notes, Bulgarian Rose, May Rose, Jasmine, Freesia, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Bergamot, Orris, Orange blossom, Cedar, Oakmoss, Honey, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, Tonka Bean, Lavender, Galbanum.

Arabian Wood comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 166 Euro and in 250ml for 400 Euro.

TOLA- MISQAAL (2013)

Misqaal Tola

Personality

Aromatic, woody and spicy, Misqaal is such a rich scent with many layers and high quality ingredients, that not only will not disappoint but is highly intriguing.

History

Misqaal is a measurement system of weight that was used to measure gold and expensive goods such as spices, back in the days in the regions of Gulf and India. Misqaal is a fragrance made by Dhaher Bin Dhaher and comes from Dubai, UAE. Tola is a new and promising brand in Perfumery, focusing on good marketing tools and premium quality ingredients.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarine, Grapefruit, Plum, Pineapple, Raspberry, Pink pepper, Lemon, Bergamot, Nutmeg, Anise, Coriander, Fir, Honey.

Middle Notes: French orange flower, Heliotrope, Geranium, Orris, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Juniper, Wormwood, Orchid.

Base Notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Patchouli, Labdanum, Leather, Tonka bean, Cypriol oil, Agarwood, Incense, Siam Benzoin, Castoreum, White musk, Ambergis.

Misqaal comes as Extrait de Parfum and Eau de Parfum in 45 ml for 235 Euro.

HIND AL OUD-WAQAT

Waqt

Personality

This is a head turning scent that has accompanied me in many fun nights last year! I was always asked what was it, when I was wearing it, and was always receiving exclamation points when I was saying: it is downtown Arabic! During the opening, almonds and flowers take over, while its trail is similar to cream chocolate and rum. Balmy, lightly woody and powdery, this perfume is at least ethereal…

History

Waqat means time in Arabic. Waqat was created by Mohammed Hilal, the mastermind behind my favourite Arabic perfumes brand: Hind Al Oud.

Composition

Top notes: Cyclamen, Almond blossom.

Main notes: Jasmine, Peony.

Base notes: Ambergis, Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood.

Waqat comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for Dhs 550 or else 110 Euro.

AMOUAGE- DIA MAN (2002)

dia_mens_large_normal

Personality

The first time I sniffed Dia for men I thought “Oh my! Whoever wears this, turns automatically a level of dangerousness up before I even see him…” and I crowned it as one of my favourite men’s scents of all time! Dia man smells basically like dry and spicy woods that get deeper, hour after hour and to me is a much simpler composition than the rest of Amouages. In addition to that, Dia man soaps make a spectacular gift for hosts and hostesses.

History

Dia for men is a Bertrand Duchaufour’s creation for Amouage, launched in 2002.

Composition

Top notes: Incense, Cardamom, Landanum, Bitter orange.

Main notes: Orris root, Plum, Ylang-ylang, Peony.

Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Leather.

Dia for men comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 175 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.

AMOUAGE- JUBILATION 25 WOMAN (2007)

jubilation_25_womens_large_normal

Personality

Such a beloved perfume! Jubilation could be “Dia’s” first cousin, who is coming from Indian Ocean’s side of the Middle East, while Dia is from the Versailles. They both have the same floral lightness but Jubilation is way deeper, having all the three: incense, myrrh and amber working hard throughout its longevity and making it balsamic and autumn-y. I suggest you layering it with its fabulous bath products that add extra balsamic notes.

History

Celebrating Amouage’s 25 years of creations, Jubilation 25 for women was created by Lucas Sieuzac and was launched in 2007 along with its male counterpart, not only to commemorate its Home’s birthday but also to stigmatize the beginning of a successful route with Christopher Chong at the wheel, as Creative Director.

Composition

Top notes: Lemon, Tarragon, Rose, Ylang-ylang.

Main notes: Rose, Labdanum, Artemisia, Incense.

Base notes: Myrrh, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Musk.

Jubilation 25 for women comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 205 Euro and in 100ml for 240 Euro. 

AMOUAGE- FATE WOMAN (2013)

fate-woman-big

Personality

This is how luxury smells like! Fate for woman is bold but not aggressive at all. I can smell most of the ingredients in just one application and to me is a genderless perfume. It has a “Jicky” effect on me, or else an effect like a chewing gum with sparkling spice in it, yet sweet taste. Fate woman is full of transitions. For me, labdanum, peppers, vanilla and benzoin backed up with few florals stand out in Fate. Smells very original and unique, out of what exists in the market.

History

Dorothee Piot is the “Nose” behind Fate woman that was launched this year.

Composition

Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon, Red chili pepper, Pepper.

Main notes: Rose, Labdanum, Narcissus, Jasmine, Incense.

Base notes: Benzoin, Patchouli, Vanilla, Castoreum, Incense, Leather, Oakmoss.

Fate woman comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 240 Euro and in 100ml for 290 Euro.

AMOUAGE- TRIBUTE (2009)

tribute oil

Personality

If anyone knows a scent identical to Tribute, in eau de parfum spray form and is willing to share the knowledge, I would highly appreciate it…  It is a dark perfume with prominent smokey, leathery and lightly woody notes but neither heavy not flooding; definitely, one of Amouage’s best perfumes. Long lasting, sensual and warm, Tribute is from its opening to its end an interesting perfume to let it stand out alone or layer it under vanilla-ish and rose scents for a sweet effect or under incenses for bolder situations.

History

Tribute belongs to Amouage’s Attar collection. Fellow blogger Kafkaesque explains in depth, what Attar is to perfumery in here.

Composition

Top notes: Spices, Taifi Rose, Saffron.

Main notes: Rose, French Labdanum, Amber, Jasmine, Incense.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Juniper, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather, Tobacco.

Tribute comes as oil in 12ml and 30ml, starting from 270 Euro in European markets and from 192 Euro in Omani markets.

GUERLAIN- L’INSTANT MAGIC (2007)

l'instant magic guerlain

Personality

If I had to pick one, and I say one perfume only, from Guerlain that represents Autumn, this would be L’Instant Magique. The almonds, vanilla and musk, create such a cashmere like, powdery and warming up sense that makes it perfect for every occasion and every mood throughout Fall. I recommend trying it with the whole body range to prolong the somehow poor longevity.

History

L’instant Magic was created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Randa Hammami.

Composition

Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Anise.

Main notes: Rose, Freesia, Carnation, Mimose, Violet.

Base notes: White musk, Almond, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Iris, Cedar.

L’Instant Magic comes as Extrait de Parfum in 7.5ml for 112 Euro and as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 60 Euro, in 50ml for 85 Euro and 80ml for 104 Euro. The range includes bath gel, body lotion and body cream.

GUERLAIN- SHALIMAR (1925)

Shalimar Guerlain

Personality

Who hasn’t had a dose or hasn’t heard of Shalimar? And even if you haven’t, get ready to be bombardized by Guerlain’s new marketing campaign the following months. Though Shalimar is a 92 years old perfume, it is timeless and for all ages.  Bergamot, Vanilla, powdery notes, all star in this legendary creation, which is perfect for those late afternoons in a friend’s house for cocooning or in your favourite café drinking hot chocolate and watching the rain falling….

History

Shalimar was created in 1921 by Jacques Guerlain, inspired by the legendary Shah Jahan of the Mughal Empire, who built Taj Mahal mausoleum to honour the memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal.

Despite having received an award in France, Shalimar became a success story not later than 1925, when Madame Raymond Guerlain (Raymond had designed the fan-like Shalimar bottle) wore it during a transatlantic trip to New York and allured everyone! In a blink of an eye, the rumour of Shalimar was spread from mouth to mouth and from the boat to New York City. As a result everybody wanted a bottle of Shalimar. To know more on this legendary creation read House’s connoisseur and fellow blogger Monsieur Guerlain here.

Composition

Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Citruses, Cedarwood, Mandarin.

Main notes: Rose, Vetiver, Jasmine, Patchouli, Iris.

Base notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Incense, Vanilla, Opoponax, Musk, Civet.

Shalimar comes as Extrait in 7.5ml for 112 Euro, in 15ml for 166 Euro and in 30ml for 270 Euro. It also comes as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 60 Euro, in 50ml for 85 Euro and 90ml for 114 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 52 Euro, in 50ml for 72 Euro and 90ml for 98 Euro. The range includes bath gel, body lotion, body cream, soap, deodorant and powder.

GUERLAIN- IRIS GANACHE (2007)

Iris Ganache

Personality

My well-educated readers will already know that Iris Ganache is a discontinued perfume since last year. You will then ask me “Why did you include it?” I did so because, for me, Iris Ganache along with L’Instant Magic are the epitome of Autumn. Iris exhales warmth, as powdery iris and sweet chocolate take over throughout longevity. I consider it worth trying and worth looking for it in online perfume shops and small corner stores that might still carry few last pieces.

History

Iris Ganache was a Thierry Wasser creation, launched in 2007 and was the 5th addition to the exclusive collection: L’Art et La Matière.

Composition

Top notes: Cinnamon, Bergamot, White Chocolate.

Main notes: Iris, Patchouli, Cedar wood.

Base notes: White musk, Vanilla, Amber.

Iris Ganache came as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.

GUERLAIN- CUIR BELUGA (2005)

cuir beluga

Personality

Cuir Beluga is an irresistible amber and vanilla composition that is perfect for Autumn! Its dry-down smells something like flowers and creamy leather, very smooth and powdery too, as every Guerlain perfume that respects its origins. Here you will find an insightful review for Cuir Beluga by fellow blogger Olfactoria.

History

Cuir Beluga is an Olivier Polge creation and was launched in 2005, along with Rose Barbare and Angélique Noire. Coinciding the opening of the renovated at that time “La Maison Guerlain” boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysée, Guerlain launched these three perfumes in collaboration with three celebrated perfumers, as part of the L’Art et La Matière range.

Composition

Top notes: Tangerine, Aldehydes.

Main notes: Patchouli, Immortelle.

Base notes: Vanilla, Amber, Suede, Heliotrope.

Cuir Beluga comes as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.

GUERLAIN- MYRRHE & DÉLIRES (2012)

MYRRHE & DÉLIRES

Personality

Even if some would classify it as a scent for Spring, I will keep it in this list for its delicious and cozy myrrh. Myrrh is the indisputable protagonist in this perfume, with frankincense, licorice and faint florals completing the mise-en scène. Myrrhe & Délires is an unisex and kind of “joker” scent that can be worn from day to night, in every occasion and can support numerous combinations when layered.

History 

Myrrhe & Délires is a Thierry Wasser creation and was launched in 2012. It is the 8th and most recent release for L’Art et La Matière range.

Composition

Top notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit.

Main notes: Violet Leaf, Rose, Jasmine, Osmanthus.

Base notes: Patchouli, Incense, Tonka Bean, Myrrh, Vanilla, Licorice.

Myrrhe & Délires comes as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.

Disclaimer: All the pictures of perfumes are extracted by the Perfume Houses’ websites.

Mission to Oman’s treasure: Amouage

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1st of August found me in the most exotic, beautiful and less advertised country of the Arabian Gulf, Oman. Despite the little time I had in my possession to explore Arabia’s, Africa’s and India’s crossroad, Muscat, I made sure to include first in my scheduale –for my nose and your eyes only- a name synonymous to Oman: the headquarters of the House of Amouage.

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Amouage in Arabic means waves. Amouage in Perfumery means the waves of emotions. Ever since 1983, when the Perfume House was founded by His Highness Sayed Hamad bin Hamood Al Busaidi, a senior member of the Omani Royal family and established by Oman’s Sultan Qaboos bin Said, Amouage is inspiring and crafting exceptional fragrances in regal quality.

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At the moment Amouage operates three major global offices, in Kuala Lumpur- Malaysia, Muscat- Oman and London- United Kingdom and three sales offices in Dubai –UAE, Riyadh- Saudi Arabia and Doha- Qatar. Behind the wheel we find Mr. David Crickmore as CEO and Mr. Cristopher Chong as Creative Director for the company.

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The Initial Tour

At first, an Omani Mademoiselle named Ameerah toured me around the raw ingredients organ and got me to know all about Amouage’s fleet.

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Raw materials

Sourcing materials for Amouage is an exclusively French job. French buyers have undertaken the responsibility of tracking and buying raw materials for the House, which uses more than 120 natural ingredients.

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Frankincense is one of the most commonly used materials in Amouage’s fragrances. Our French friends buy the resin from Salalah, which has a rich incense trading history since 13th century. There is the house of the most rare and purest species of all kinds of olibanium. Frankincense is not only a common ingredient to use in perfumes, but also to burn in bukhoor for houses and several religious activities.

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Myrrh and Roses are also widely used in Amouage perfumes and they are being sourced from Oman’s Jebel Akhdar area. More specifically, the essence of the rare, Omani rock rose – a flower found across Jebel Akhdar’s mountain range- is used in “Gold”.

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The bottles

Omani as it is, Amouage wanted to provide a tangible memory along with its Arabic “flavour”. The bottles and caps reminisce familiar Omani symbols: men fragrances the shape of Khanjar, the traditional Omani dagger and women fragrances the dome and shape of Ruwi mosque, in Muscat.

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Timeline of existing perfumes

1983

Amouage’s first launch came in 1983 and was “Gold”, an ultra sexy, very long lasting and timeless scent for women, by well-known perfumer Guy Robert. That very first juice was hosted in pure French crystal bottle, which was dressed in 24-carat gold plated decorations.

90’s

1995: Amouage launched “Ubar” commemorating the lost city of Ubar, near Salalah, in Oman.

1998: Gold’s male pair was created 15 years after, by Guy himself with only two extra notes: oakmoss and patchouli.

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00’s

2002: -the floral, aldehydic and matching with Gold, “Dia” (female and male versions).

– “Silver” for men.

2003: the cool, fresh and full of gardenia “Ciel” (female and male versions).

2007:

-The sharp, green or powdery (men’s), light floral “Reflection” (female and male versions).

-“Jubilation 25” for women and “Jubilation XXV” for men. This is the turning point in Amouage’s creations as it is the mark of the beginning of storylines for future launches and Christopher Chong’s undertaking of duties as Creative Director. Jubilation was created in honour of Amouage’s 25 years of existence.

2008: “Lyric” (female and male versions). Lyric is full of roses in both versions and “tells” the story of lyric music. Lyric is also a direct implication to Mr. Chong’s past as a Baritone.

2009: “Epic” (female and male versions).  Epic is such a theatrical and unique scent! Epic creations celebrate the legendary trade routes of Silk Road, from China to Arabia.

2010’s

2010: my favourite “Memoir” (female and male versions).  . The perfumes celebrate the black swan story and the endless dramatic narratives of woman and man chronicles.

16

2011: “Honour” was created to honour the tragic story of Madame Butterfly. (female and male versions).

2012:

-“Beloved” for women, my second favourite from this line of Amouage.

-“Interlude” (female and male versions), came giving a symbolic meaning to humanity. Interlude is another indirect reference to Mr. Chong’s Lyric past and a direct reference to what the world’s needs: a break from all this destruction and misery.

2013:

-“Fate” (amazing female and male versions).  Fate is the swan song of Amouage’s storylines and the call to take our lives in our hands and strive for the best with whatever means we have.

-Beloved for men.

The Library Collection

In 2010, Amouage introduced us the “Library Collection”. It is a line with a sense of exclusivity and I dare to say, deeper, challenging and more complex scents, for demanding noses. The library collection is Mr. Chong’s personal bet and has hosted different Perfumers for each creation. Opus I to IV, were launched all in 2010. Since then Amouage releases one Opus per year. 17

50% of Opus IV global sales go to the National HIV/AIDS Prevention and Control Program (NAP) in Oman, an initiative supported by the Ministry of Health, World Health Organisation, United Nations Children’s Fund and United Nations Population Fund.

Opus III and Opus IV drive me nuts! Opus III has a light flowery scent and it strongly reminds me of Guerlain’s Insolence, when the middle notes are in charge. On the other hand, Opus IV has a magical, authentic olibanium scent. I appreciate Opus II and Opus VI as well. The first evolves into a crispy, yet spicy beautiful aroma and the second, smells mostly of oud.

The Factory

Menjie, Sales Associate and Amouage connoisseur for more than 10 years toured me around the manufacturing area and the gift shop.

19

On the left you can see the Initial Perfume Organ, that was used during the first years of Amouage.

18

Enfleurage. This is an initial, traditional process, during which flowers and plants are placed on odourless vegetable fat (3 tones each time) in room temperature, to capture the fragrant compounds. Absolute is a product of enfleurage.

20

Distillation process involves strictly petals and water.

21 22

Chilling machine contains 22% of concentrate.

In 1983, Amouage had only 6 tanks in possession to make only its 4 different kinds of perfumes. It is significant that all filling was done manually.

Today, the perfumes are created in Grasse, France and spend the last process of manufacture (the maceration) and bottling in Amouage’s factory in Oman. Maceration lasts from 6 to 8 weeks.

Production

Amouage produces maximum 2500-3000 bottles daily. Depending on the demand, the production can reach 5000-10000 bottles daily.

23 24 25

Absolutes and perfumes are being bottled and packaged in Oman, while creams, soaps and lotions in France.

The gift shop

26 27 28 29 30 3136 37 38

Leather goods

Impressively, Amouage sells outstanding leather goods as well. Leather is Italian cow skin and the goods are made in Italy. In particular, Amouage’s leather goods are made in the same factory that produces the Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo products.

32 33 34 35

My Shopping

Shopping in Amouage factory was an undoubtedly pleasant experience, thinking of all the variety, benefit of playing around endlessly, Menjie’s helpful assistance and a complimentary 10% discount one has at the end of the day! Keep at the back of your mind though that Amouage’s corner shop at Omani Airport offers an even greater discount. My shopping costed originally 73 Omani Riyals. After discount I paid 65 O.R. and I received plenty of Amouage perfumes samples, which I will review soon.

39 40

I bought the “Dia” super luxurious, perfumed cream in jar for my mum, which she adores using since 2009. It smells exactly like Dia for women and it has great longevity. It also compliments perfectly her beloved perfume, Coco Chanel. Original price was 38 O.R.

42 43

For myself, I got the Memoir perfume in solid wax. I wear it for over a month now and I am totally happy with its scent, even though its sillage and longevity are pretty weak. I use it to refresh throughout the day- something like a scent booster! Original price was 35 O.R.

41

The factory is located in Muscat’s Al Seeb area, near to the airport. Below you can have a look at the map and driving instructions, provided to me by the company.

Amouage location map

44 Amouage corner shop in Oman airport.

Amouage’s corner shop at Oman’s Al Seeb airport

Wrapping up my experience I can only confirm of what I saw and sniffed:

Amouage IS the gift of kings!

Summer potions

You know it is Summer, when the notes of intoxicating resins, heavy woods and dark flowers in your perfumes feel just unbearable.

Today, I am sharing with you beloved scents (some of which are part of my personal collection and some are waiting patiently their turn) that I consider perfect fit for the hot, sunny days and the cool, promising summer nights in a light breeze.

Remember that you can always stick to the Eau de Toilettes, Eau de Colognes and Eau Fraiches of your original fragrances, experimenting also with the bath products of their ranges to preserve the scent or replace your perfume.

CHANEL NO19 (1970)

 chanel 19

Personality

I experience no19 it as a refreshing, yet deep green scent, fantastically orchestrated with floral, woody and citrusy notes.

It opens with a blast of green, fresh notes that soon after play around with the iris, oakmoss and vetiver.  It dries down to an absolutely soothing, woody- powdery imprint.

History

19 itself refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel; August 19th. The perfume launched in 1970, a year before the Grande Dame died. No19 is a perfume created by Henri Robert, the Chanel’s in-house perfumer of that time.

Composition

Top notes: Neroli, Green notes and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Rose, Iris, Narcissus and Lily of the valley.

Base notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Oakmoss and Leather.

Chanel No19 comes in Parfum, EDP, EDT and has bath products embellishing the range. Eau de parfum of 50 ml costs 78 Euro.

MAGNETIC SCENT TINDRER (2012)

Magnetic_Scent_11

Personality

Tindrer embodies intense shocks of freshness sniff after sniff. If it was a natural phenomenon, it would be cloudburst. If it was an element, it would be wood dipped in wet soil. If it was colour, it would be green. It opens with an uplifting green scent of wet woods and violet.

Christos Karageorgos has written a very precise review on this masterpiece, here.

History

Tindrer means sparkle in Danish. Spyros Drosopoulos tempted to bottle the feeling of a cold spring morning in countryside, right after the rain. Magnetic Scent is a niche perfume house, producing beautifully unorthodox perfumes.

Composition

Cut Grass, Wet Soil, Cedar, Cypress, Galbanum,

Oakmoss, Violet, Heliotrope, Amber, Musk.

Tindrer comes as Eau de parfum in 50 ml and costs 110 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN (1989)

 jil-sander-sun-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

SUN is full of contradictions. Although an Eau de Toilette, it is one of the few perfumes of its kind that has a long lasting effect and pretty strong sillage. Although marketed as summer scent, it has a protrusive benzoin note that makes it a dark yet sultry scent. Persistent nuances of vanilla and ylang-ylang and an intense dry down to tonka bean and sandalwood, make this paradox what I wear for 10 summers now.

History

Pierre Bourdon created SUN in 1989 for German fashion brand Jil Sander.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Fruity notes, Bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Cassis, Palisander rosewood

Middle notes: Rose, Orris root, Heliotrope, Carnation, Ylang-ylang, Lily of the valley

Base notes: Styrax, Amber, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk, Sandalwood

SUN is available as Eau de toilette in 30 ml and 75 ml. The 30ml flacon costs 23 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN MEN (2002)

jil-sander-sun-men-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

Less complicated than SUN, SUN Men is a fresh spicy fragrance blending ideally all its notes across the structure. Opening introduces fresh bergamot. Then it progresses to spices until it dries down to a warm musky scent. I would classify it as an everyday, -to go option.

History

SUN Men was created by Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori.

Composition

Top notes: Rosemary and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Nutmeg and Cardamom.

Base notes: Sandalwood and Musk.

SUN Men is available as Eau de toilette in 40 ml, 75 ml, 125 ml and 200 ml. The 40ml bottle costs 33 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’IRIS (2007)

 infusion d'iris

Personality

Utterly classy and modern, I predict Infusion D’ Iris to be sold for years and years. This gem is as a floral-woody scent on a powdery background. The opening is a soft transition from citruses and iris to woods. Infusion D’ Iris whispers the swan song with galbanum and vetiver, always under the iris clave. I want to experiment layering it under Prada Amber pour Homme.

History

Daniela Roche Andrier of Givaudan, is the composer of this perfume. A traditional method of iris distillation is the inspiration of its name. During this method, iris is kept soaked for six months before extraction.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Neroli, Orange, Mandarine.

Middle notes: Iris, Mastic, Galbanum.

Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Incense, Benzoin.

Infusion d’Iris comes as Parfum in 3.5ml and 7.5ml, as EDP 50ml, 100ml and 200ml and as EDT and has bath products too. Eau de parfum 50 ml costs 75 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’HOMME (2008)

 Infusion-homme-Prada

Personality

Beautifully crafted, this is a long lasting, soapy and softly woody-balmy scent. I will dare to say it is a rather unisex perfume. First sniff takes you to neroli and a powdery iris. Time plays with Infusion’s vetiver, olibanium, benzoin and cedar notes, bringing back and forth the iris card.

History

What a Duchess is without her Duke? Following the success of the first, female Infusion, Daniela Andrier and Prada released a year after Infusion D’Homme, a fragrance that has been worked for years. Infusion duo basically is the second fragrance launch from Prada.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarine, Tunisian Neroli.

Middle notes: Iris, Vetiver, Virginian cedar, Galbanum.

Base notes: Powdery notes, Olibanium, Benzoin.

Infusion D’Homme comes as Eau de Toilette in 50 ml and 100ml and has a bath set too. 50ml of the juice cost 57 Euro.

ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE LILT (2012)

 Lilt

Personality

As I mentioned in a previous post, this fragrance is a journey. For whoever grew up near fig trees and want to preserve this recollection throughout summer, this unique juice is a must! Lilt goes on as very green and aromatic, opening with freshly cut fig and green notes and evolving to fruits wrapped in musk. It is long lasting and has strong sillage.

History

Lilt belongs to the first batch of creations by Alexandra De Montfort, along with Chatoyant, Vespers and Inspiration. As Madame De Montfort stated, the purpose of these perfumes is to awaken and enhance memories.

Composition

Top notes: Green leaves, Fig leaf.

Middle notes: Peach, Coconut, Violet.

Base notes: Musk, Vetiver.

Lilt comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml and costs 82 Euro.

  

ESTEE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS EAU FRAICHE SKINSCENT(2013)

bronze goddess 

Personality

Dangerously sexy and entirely tropical, Bronze Goddess is the indisputable scent of the summer. Solar, warm and milky, it gives me a prominent coconut note followed by a blend of perfectly balanced citruses and florals. At this point I want to announce that this is the first and only perfume I like from the Estee range and express a deep wish of mine: to find a tanning lotion carrying this sublime scent.

 History

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche is the 2013 edition of the annual Bronze Goddess tradition that started in 2007 with Azuree Soleil.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarin, Sicilian Citron, Calabrese Bergamot, Orange, Lavender, Lemon tree leaves

Middle notes: Milk, Indian jasmine, Grapefruit, Pink Lily, Orange blossom, Tunisian Neroli

Base notes: Amber, Musk, Iris, Woody notes

The Eau fraiche comes in 100 ml and costs 45 Euro. There is body oil accompanying the release.

DIOR ADDICT EAU DELICE (2013)

addict eau DELICEjpg 

Personality

The perfect girly scent for a luminous summer… This is what a more Barbie focused, Kubrick’s Lolita might have worn in that hot, sticky, 50’s summer.

Addict Eau Delice has a fruity, floral and musky scent. The perfume opens with a splash of sweetness from cranberry, carrying on to freshness from jasmine and ylang-ylang. After some time Addict Eau Delice concludes with creamy musk.

For my Dutch readers, Marjolein reviews extensively the perfume launch in her Another Fashion Lover website.

History

This perfume is a sweeter, fruitier version of the original, interpreted by Francois Demachy. The original is Addict, created on 2002 by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Cranberry, Bergamot, Orange, and Cherry

Middle notes: Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian and Indian Jasmine, Rose, Bitter Almond

Base notes: White Musk, Cedar, and Vanilla

Addict Eau Delice come as Eau de Toilette in 20ml, 50 ml and 100ml and 20ml costs 50 Euro. If you are looking for a bath line, have a look at the original Addict’s range.

AMOUAGE DIA WOMEN (2002)

dia_womens_large_normal

Personality

All you need to notice the first-degree kinship is few minutes after the opening. Having prominent aldehydic notes, Dia and legendary Chanel No5 can be first or second cousins. What differentiates them though, is how they evolve over time.

Dia is regal and undoubtedly suits a romantic yet conscious, a true lady. It is a clean composition that morphs from floral, to lightly woody, to soapy. Though not my type, I certainly appreciate its depth and complexity.

History

Jean-Claude Ellena crafted Dia in 2002.

Composition

Top notes: Fig, Bergamot, Sage, Violet leaves, Tarragon, Cyclamen, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Orris root, Turkish Rose oil, Peach blossom, Peony, Orange  blossom.

Base notes: Heliotrope, Guaiac wood, Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White Musk, Cedarwood.

Dia comes as Extrait de Parfum in 50 ml for 310 Euro, as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 200 euro and in 100 ml for 235 euro. Dia has a full bath and body range and candles.

AMOUAGE CIEL WOMEN (2003)

 ciel_womens_new_large_normal

Personality

Ciel is a pot of gardenia, at the higher spot of your balcony. There, where it can grab the woody scents of the nearby grove in the air and dress in them, when it pleases so. Ciel as a name is just the password to summer. Other than that it does not resemble any aquatic element. Ciel is a flowery-woody, ethereal composition that worth attention.

History

Ciel was launched in summer 2003. 

Composition

Top notes: Cyclamen, Gardenia, Violet leaf.

Middle notes: Peach blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Water lily.

Base notes: Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Insence, Cedarwood.

Ciel comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 190 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.

AMOUAGE THE LIBRARY COLLECTION OPUS III (2010)

 opus III

Personality

Opus III is the ideal companion to those afternoon and evening summer walks in the woods, villages, parks. Warm woods and bright flowers, as the scent itself: a dry floral and woody composition with a sweet and powdery dry down. If you are a keen violet lover, then this perfume is for you. Violet is the definite protagonist in all the moments of the scent’s unwrapping. It reminds me a lot Guerlain Insolence, until half its longevity.

History

Opus III is a creation by Karin Vinchon Spehner. The perfume is launch number three, belonging to the luxurious Library Collection of Amouage.

Composition

Top notes: Mimosa, Broom, Carnation, Nutmeg, Thyme.

Heart notes: Violet, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, African Orange Blossom.

Base notes: Ambrette, Musk, Papyrus, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Frankincense.

Eau de Parfum 100ml for 275 Euro.

TOM FORD GREY VETIVER MEN (2009)

grey vetiver

Personality

Vetiver grass smells quite intense and aggressive. Grey Vetiver is the most polite interpretation Vetiver can have. It opens with tuned down-not so sparkly citruses and involves to a delicious light spicy-woody compilation of nutmeg, oakmoss, warm wood and most of all vetiver! It has moderate power and longetivity and I consider it a great tool in layering perfumes.

History

In this section, I want to give extra credit to the impeccable art deco flacon, which is a jewel on its own…

Composition

Top notes: Orange flower, Grapefruit.

Middle notes: Sage, Nutmeg.

Base notes: Vetiver, Warm wood, Orris root, Amberwood, Oakmoss.

Grey Vetiver comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 75 Euro and in 100ml for 104 Euro. The range also includes after shave balm.

 

TOM FORD OMBRE DE HYACINTH (2012)

ombre de hyacinth

Personality

This has to be my third most favourite creation out of the Private Blend range. Beautiful, aromatic hyacinth is the centre of attention, evolving nicely with violet and jasmine. Galbanum gives it a bitter taste but it definitely is a green, earthy perfume.

History

Ombre de Hyacinth is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Galbanum, Violet leaf, Magnolia petals and Olibanum.

Middle notes: Hyacinth, Pink pepper and Jasmine.

Base notes: Galbanum, Benzoin and Musk.

Ombre De Hyacinth belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

TOM FORD LYS FUME (2012)

lys fume

Personality

When I picked up the bottle to smell Lys Fume, I was hoping to find in it something similar to Guerlain’s Lys Soleia (included in the same post, just below) or something smokey, tropical and irresistible. To my surprise I found neither the one, nor the other.

Lys Fume is all about lily in nucleus and ylang ylang and vanilla in orbit to complement the protagonist. The reason why I added this perfume in this post is because it is still a very nice scent to sport in summer mornings.

History

Lys Fume is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Italian mandarin, Pink pepper, Turmeric and Nutmeg.

Middle notes: White lily, Ylang-ylang, Artemisia and Rum.

Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Labdanum, Styrax, Oak, Vanilla.

Lys Fume belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA LYS SOLEIA (2012)

lys soleia

Personality

This juice has something narcotic in it. In every spray, time stops, a breeze passes indolently through the palm leaves and the watering machine quenches the thirst of flowers…

Sun, Lilies, ylang- ylang and tuberose dipped in vanilla and dried on musk. Highly recommended for morning hours and beach excursions!

History

Released in 2012, Lys Soleia was composed by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Bergamot, Amalfi lemon and Palm leaves.

Heart notes: Lily, Ylang-ylang, and Tropical fruits.

Base notes: Tuberose, Vanilla and White Musk.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro and in 125 ml.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA NEROLIA BIANCA (2013)

nerolia bianca

Personality

Juicy, Mouthwatering, sparkling orange! Very citrusy, highly aromatic, this is a beautiful composition that goes nicely with carefree mood… Highly recommended if you are a smoker, as the citruses neutralizes the smell of tobacco.

History

Nerolia Bianca is Thierry Wasser’s attempt to create a perfume extracting every bit of a bitter orange tree.

Composition

Main notes: Orange blossom, Bitter orange, Orange, Leaves of petit grain, Neroli, Twigs.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro.

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA TIARE MIMOSA (2009)

tiare mimosa 

Personality

Brighter than the sun, this scent is sensual beyond limits! Mimosa, tiare and lemon blend perfectly with each other during the opening and throughout the experience, leading to a sweet, musky trail.

Highly recommended for layering during summer vacations under a musk- peppery scent and for brides to be!

History

To know more about Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line visit Perfumeshrine’s Elena Vosnaki article here.

Composition

Main notes: Mimose, Tiare flower, Amalfi lemon, Musk, Vanilla, Pink pepper.

I hope you can still find Tiare Mimose in some big cosmetics stores, small corner perfumeries and definitely around the web. Prices start from 60 Euro for 75ml.

 

GUERLAIN LA COLOGNE DU PARFUMER (2010)

cologne parfumer

Personality

It is uplifting and clean! Green, almost grassy notes mix well with polite citruses. As it is Eau de Cologne, longevity is not great. Perfect for freshening up and layering with woody perfumes. For more details watch Pelle Suringa, who is the man behind Geurenland, in this video reviewing the Cologne.

History

Thierry Wasser originally created this Cologne for himself. The creation happened in the same era as of Idylle, during his time off.

Composition

Main notes: African orange flower, Citruses, Amalfi lemon, Rosemary, Lavender, Mint.

La Cologne Du Parfumer is an Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 90Euro.

 

GUERLAIN EAU DE COLOGNE IMPERIALE (1853)

 eau de cologne imperiale Eau-de-Cologne-Imperiale-Guerlain-Parfum_high

Personality

This is sparkling, green and very yellow! Citruses here are loud and they are capable of waking you up in a sniff of a nose. Longevity is poor, however is an excellent choice to preserve the freshness after a cool shower and to layer over it citrusy, light woody fragrances. You may also use it for its original purpose: battle the headache. Simply damp the juice on a cool piece of cloth and keep it on your forehead for 10 minutes.

 History

Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, Founder of Maison Guerlain, undertook the responsibility of crafting a remedy for Empress Eugenie’s, wife of Napoleon III, severe headaches. The alluring creation ensured Pierre Francois a conspicuous place inside royal houses and the prestigious title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Citruses, Lemon verbena, Neroli, Bergamot and Lemon.

Base notes: Rosemary, Tonka bean and Cedar.

The historic perfume comes as Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 85Euro.

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR PARFUM INITIAL (2011)

shalimar parfum initial l'eau

Personality

Firstly we have to agree that Shalimar Parfum Initial range stands off from its progenitor, Shalimar. Then let’s admire the same exact materials used in both the old and new fragrances, but in a twisted row.

Shalimar Parfum Initial l’Eau is a feast of spring and is a lot less powdery and sweet than its original and Shalimar itself. The addition of grapefruit and flowers, such as lily of the valley, hyacinth and more, in the citrusy- floral-oriental composition, give a fresher and lighter result. Iris and bergamot are always present. It all ends to a warm, creamy result with the help of vanilla.

History

With Shalimar Parfum Initial range, composer Thierry Wasser aimed to reformulate for younger audiences the cornerstone of Guerlain fragrances, Shalimar. The original Shalimar is a Jacques Guerlain creation of 1925. Shalimar Parfum Initial Eau de Parfum was launched in 2011 and its l’Eau version in 2012. This year there is L’Eau Si Sensuelle version, which corresponds to L’Eau, bottled in glacé.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Neroli

Heart notes: Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Freesia, Hyacinth

Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka bean.

The perfume is available as Eau de Toilette in 40ml for 45 Euro, 60 ml and 100 ml.

 

GUERLAIN JICKY (1889)

jicky

Personality

The first time I experienced the original blend of Jicky I picked up a fight with my friend Maxime. I debated hard on how overestimated this scent was, strongly influenced of its rough opening, and I was wrong. The second time I applied Jicky, I was alone and I had all the time I needed, to watch it evolving deeply.

I feel it was a progressive release for its era and I imagine it was a favourite among some type of witty, multi traveled, unprejudiced ladies, who were enjoying high social statuses and even though they did not show how powerful they were, they could crush you blandly.

Every time I sniff Jicky something green and animalic hits me, until it dries down to a balmy-leathery trail. Jicky is a very complex construction, yet an alive piece of history.

History

Jicky was a revolutionary creation, being one of the first perfumes including synthetic materials. Aime Guerlain composed Jicky in 1889, inspired by his love for a girl he met, during his academic years in England. The flacon reminisces the original 19th century’s medicinal bottles and the stopper that of a champagne’s bottle.

Composition

Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Rosemary and Bergamot.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, Lavender, Orris root, Jasmine, Basil.

Base Notes: Vanilla, Opoponax, Benzoin, Brazilian rosewood, Amber, Sandalwood, Leather, Spices.

Jicky is available as Parfum in 30ml for 270Euro, as Eau de Parfum

in 50 ml for 86 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 93ml for 98 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN MAYOTTE (2006)

mayotte

Personality

Mayotte is beautiful! It has an intoxicating white floral-woody scent that gets better and better as it dries. In the beginning you get tuberose and ylang ylang with hints of vanilla and at the finale soft woods that preserve the tropical element.

I want to imagine it on bronzed skin, dressed in a strawberry red sexy dress. If you will have your vacations on an island, Mayotte is the perfect choice to create an olfactory memory album with.

History

Mayotte was named after the complex of two small French islands and islets, located over Madagascar and it belongs to the Parisiennes collection of Guerlain. In 2000, Jean Paul Guerlain created Mahora, a perfume that resembles Mayotte intensely. If you were a fan of the now discontinued Mahora, then give Mayotte a try. 

Composition

Top: Frangipani and Neroli.

Heart: Ylang-Ylang, Indian jasmine, Tuberose.

Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Vetiver.

Mayotte is available as Eau de Parfum in 125ml for 223Euro.

 

GUERLAIN LES VOYAGES OLFACTIF 01 PARIS-MOSCOW (2009)

paris-moscow

Personality

Paris-Moscow is a citrusy-flower scent with a hint of woods. Tonka bean is in the middle of a mystical ceremony having citruses and plum dancing around it. As the perfume dries down I sense vanilla, light green notes and lemon. The grand finale happens with musk and jasmine in a creamy duet.

I do not know if the scent symbolizes Moscow in any way, but I do know that it could be a reference to a warm summer in Paris.

History

Les Voyages Olfactif Collection, or else the Olfactive Journeys, is a compilation of five –up to now- fragrances/ postcards, each inspired by the rhythm of five different capitals: Moscow, New York, Tokyo, London, Shanghai.

Composition

Top notes: Absinth, Lemon, Bergamot, Red currant, Plum, Pine needles.

Heart notes: Jasmine.

Base notes: Tonka bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White musk.

The perfume is available as Eau de Parfum, in the travel and aeroplane-friendly quantity of 100ml for 178Euro.

Which is the scent of your Summer?

Disclaimer: None of the pictures in this post have taken by me.