Autumn- Winter 2013-2014: Make up & Nail Trends

Here is a collage of season’s most important make up and nail trends… Draw inspiration and grab your make up brushes!

BERRY STAIN

1. d&g2.Somarta, M∙A∙C AW13 Tokyo Fashion Week Fashion Week

3.glamour.com-fendi-mohawks-fall-2013-w724 4. Vera Wang

5.Veronique Branquinho, M∙A∙C AW13 Paris Fashion Week6. Voilette De Madame

The trend: Either it is a raspberry, or a blackcurrant, a strawberry or a gooseberry… it is fashion! For a lighter version of the colour, try wearing a soft formula as stain patting colour from lipstick’s bullet on lips and for a more intense version, use a creamier formula with a matching lip pencil.

Pictures: 1. Dolce & Gabbana, via Pinterest 2. Somarta, via Mac Facebook page

3. Fendi, via Glamour.com 4. Vera Wang, via Pinterest 5. Veronique Branquinho, via Mac Facebook

6. Guerlain “Voilette de Madame” collection

GLITTER AND STRASS

1. tumblr_mppu53F7HI1rpywblo1_1280

tumblr_mpmi99RDuV1rpywblo1_1280tumblr_mppu6mV41B1rpywblo1_1280 

2. autumn-winter-2013-14 chanel via adaymag.com Chanel 

3. thakoon

4. House of Holland, M∙A∙C AW13 London Fashion Week 5. Manish AroraParis mac

The trend: It comes to sprinkle some magic to our special occasions! To light up your complexion and add mystery, you can use a touch of fine glitter that compliments your make up, on the eyes just above the pupils. If you are brave and you want to make a statement, apply strass or chunky pieces of glitter on your eyes or dress your lips, over your lipstick, in fine glitter with the help of an eyeshadow brush with synthetic hair.

Pictures: 1. Christian Dior, via dior.tumblr.com 2. Chanel, via Pinterest 3. Thakoon, via Elle

4. House of Holland and 5. Manish Arora, via Mac Facebook page.

GRAPHIC LINES

1. glamour.com-Pucci-bangs-beauty-w724 2. home_news_item_03

3.Backstage at Libertine, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion Week 4.Anna+Sui+Fall+2013+Backstage+RlRyoppbjnGl

The trend: It is such a timeless makeup! This trend is a remix of Brigitte Bardot’s style. It includes quite, natural tones on face and extravagant, bold eyeliners and lashes. This season, you are encouraged to play with your liner, push and extend the lines and your limits. Do not forget to add the final touch: a pair of rich false lashes!

Pictures: 1. Pucci, via Glamour.com 2. Lancôme “Artliner” collection 3. Libertine, via Mac Facebook

4. Anna Sui, via Stylebistro

METALLIC EYES

1. CDior 2. Estee Lauder

3.Etro 4. Gucci. 

5.TomFordBeautyFall2013 6. Jean-Pierre Braganza

The trend: Metallic eyeshadows is around for quite few seasons now, perhaps showing us the way to how futuristic make up will be. It is a trend I love and I honour from time to time, myself. As for colours, right now red- burgundy and everything from light to dark grey are HOT! Dare to wear your metallic eyeshadows with bold red lipctick in a glamorous night out!

Pictures: 1. Christian Dior “Mystic Metallics” collection, via dior.tumblr.com

2. Estee Lauder 3. Etro, via Pinterest 4. Gucci, via Allure 5. Tom Ford Beauty campaign

6. Jean-Pierre Braganza, via Style.com 

SMUDGED LINES

1. Holly Fulton, M∙A∙C AW13 London Fashion Week 2. Alexis Mabille, M∙A∙C AW13 Paris Fashion Week

3.Just Cavalli, M∙A∙C AW13 Milan Fashion Week. 4. Stephane Rolland MAC PARIS HAUTE COUTURE fashionweek

5. Kenzo Paris Fashion week 6.Missoni, M∙A∙C AW13 Milan Fashion Week

7. Rodarte 8.glamour.com-RobertoCavalli-rimmed-eyes-beauty-w724. jpg

The trend: The smudgier the better! This is the most wearable trend that can be worn from day to night and it is ideal for those days, when we are invited somewhere right after work and we have no time to re-apply make up. Things are simple: for a morning look, smudge the edges of a brown/ dark purple/dark green eyeliner that you have placed on your top lash lines or waterline and lower lash lines. Take the look from morning to night, reapplying black eyeliner on waterline and lower lash lines and smudging it. Pair it with red lipstick or your favourite “your lips but better” lipstick and you are good to go!

Pictures: 1. Holly Fulton and 2. Alexis Mabille and 3. Just Cavalli, via Mac Facebook page

4. Stephane Rolland and 5. Kenzo and 6. Missoni, via Mac Facebook page

7. Rodarte, via Style.com 8. Roberto Cavalli, via Glamour.com

FULLY SMOKEY EYES

1. Elie Saab, M∙A∙C Paris Haute-Couture Fashion Week Fall:Winter ‘13 2. Johan Ku, M∙A∙C AW13 Tokyo Fashion Week Fashion Week

3.Alexandrevauthier. via strangelycompelling.netjpg 4. Backstage at Donna Karan, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion Week

5.Chanel-Make-Up-Collection-Fall-2013 6.glamour. com-ferre-beauty-composite-w724

7.Francesco Scognamiglio, M∙A∙C AW13 Milan FashionFrancesco Scognamiglio, M∙A∙C AW13 Milan Fashion Week.

The trend: Whats is sexier and more mysterious than a smokey eye make up? A fuller smokey eye make up! This season, “smoke” reaches the ceiling, meaning the eye brows! Colours to play around with are black, bronze and khaki. To copy the trend, pair your intense smokey with a light peachy toned lipstick.

Pictures: 1. Elie Saab and 2.  Johan Ku, via Mac Facebook page

3. Alexandre Vauthier, via Strangelycompelling.net 4. Donna Karan, via Mac Facebook page

5. Chanel “Superstition” collection 6. Gianfranco Ferré, via Glamour.com

7. Francesco Scognamiglio, via Mac Facebook page

OMBRE LIPS

1.Backstage at Kenneth Cole, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion Week Backstage at Kenneth Cole, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion WeekMAC

2. Backstage at Zac Posen, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion Week 3. glamour.com-Emporio-armani-red-lips-w724

The trend: Ombre on hair, ombre on brows, ombre on clothes, ombre is everywhere! Now, it is also on lips. The trend encourage us to grab our red and berry lip pencils and lipsticks and our lip brushes. Start by scrubbing and prepping your lips, with the right for you products. Then, dab powder on lips to help your colours stay on place. Apply your darker colour first at outer corners with light strokes. Then, gently apply your lighter colour to the centre and blend the edges evenly, to diffuse any lines. Do not add lipgloss!

Pictures: 1. Kenneth Cole and 2. Zac Posen, via Mac Facebook page 3. Emporio Armani, via Glamour.com

THE “NO MAKE UP” MAKE UP

1. Valentino2.burberry-beauty-booth-at-the-burberry-prorsum-womenswear-autumn_winter-2013-show-karlie-kloss 3. yiqing-yin-details-haute-couture-autumn-201via the empressofdress.com31

4. Backstage at Alberta Ferretti, M∙A∙C AW13 Milan Fashion Week. 5.  Alexander Wang

6.Backstage at Victoria Beckham, M∙A∙C AW13 New York Fashion Week 7. Carolina Herrera, M∙A∙C AW13 New York FWeek.Fall 13 Forecast Eyes pallete. Oyster creme shadieall over. Rsutic red cream shadow at contour.hot tahiti with brush on lipsjpg

8. glamour.com-Blumarine-eyes-beauty-w724 9.glamour.com-DSquared-beauty-w724

The trend:  The “no make up” make up, or else “Mans’ favourite”! The trend does not imply that we should go out nude from mascara or concealer but to use products that give natural textures and skin coloured effects, just enough to make us look healthy. That translates into fresh and dewy foundation, a good but light concealer and a fine milled powder, peachy eyeshadows, pinky- rosey blushes and rosey-peach lipsticks. Do not forget to add a thin black liner on top lash lines and mascara!

Pictures: 1. Valentino, via Mizhattan 2. Burberry “Trench Kisses” collection 3. Yiqing Yin

4. Alberta Ferretti and 6.Victoria Beckham and 7.Carolina Herrera, via Mac Facebook page

5. Alexander Wang, via Pinterest 8. Blumarine and 9. Dsquared2, via Glamour.com

COLOURFUL EYES

 Aquilano RimondiM-A-CGiorgio-Armani-Kaleidoscope-makeup-for-fall-2013 

The trend: With blue being the colour mostly seen, this is the most playful trend of the season and it inspires us to go wild when doing makeup! Though blue eyeshadow is very popular, it is however a dangerous colour to wear and pretty much out outdated. There are many new products and palettes in the market, that finding wearable and fresh colours is guaranteed. Try out purple, lilac and grey-green, for a more modern version!

Pictures: Left: Aquilano Rimondi, via Mac Facebook page. Right: Giorgio Armani “Kaleidoscope” collection

BUSHY BROWS

autumn-winter-2013-14-trends-beauty-make-up-03.via adaymag.comjpg Chloè, M∙A∙C AW13 Paris Fashion Week

The trend: Bushy brows is probably the trend of the century. From messy to well groomed, we are seeing them around for years. To sport the trend you need to have naturally full brows or grow them as much as possible (if possible). Make sure to fill the gaps with pencils and brow powders or eye shadows and correct their shape with gels and liquid liners.

Pictures: Left: Burberry, via adaymag.com. Right: Chloè, via Mac Facebook page

NAIL TRENDS

1. Dior2. Gareth Pugh, M∙A∙C AW13 Paris Fashion Week

3.golden flakes 4. hbz-nail-trends-fw13-black0-La-Perla-de

5. tom ford red 6. red-silver

7.elle-01-zac-posen-nail-trends-xln-lgn 8.Manish Arora, M∙A∙C AW13 Paris Fashion Week  

The colours: Black, Lilac, Berry, Red, Grey, Nude skin colour, Blue, anything Metallic.

The designing trends: Golden flakes at tips or base of nail, silver tip at tips,

stroke of colours mixed at the half of the nail, hearts, strass and pearls.

Pictures: 1. Christian Dior “Mystic Metallics” collection, via dior.tumblr.com

2. Gareth Pugh, via Mac Facebook page 3. Golden flakes, via Pinterest  4. La Perla

5. Tom Ford red 6. Red with metallic silver tips, via Pinterest 7. Zac Posen, via Elle.com

8. Manish Arora, via Mac Facebook page

What goes around- October ’13

LVMH AND NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

As of September 2013, multi-awarded shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood gained a key ally: LVMH group. Being a selective retailer in luxury business and a strategic investor, LVMH decides to buy stakes in the promising British brand. Nicholas Kirkwood is known for his architectural shoe designs and sculptural forms that are anything but unnoticeable. Read more here.

donghokim.wordpress.com.nicholas-kirkwood-green1 nicholas-kirkwood-ss09-02 nitrolicious.com] Nicholas Kirkwood labellamia2011.wordpress.com nicholas-kirkwood-sandals liiiiiiis.blogspot.com

Pic 1 via donghokim.wordpress.com. Pic 2 via nitrolicious.com.

Pic 3 via labellamia2011.wordpress.com. Pic 4 via liiiiiiis.blogspot.com.

ESTEE LAUDER AND DUKAS FOR BREAST CANCER

October is Breast Cancer awareness month and Estee Lauder is known to support this holy purpose by taking dynamic actions globally.  This year, Estee Lauder in Greece collaborates with the successful, local shoe designer Dukas for 9th consecutive time to create limited editions accessories, in order to campaign, inspire and motivate. Since 2005, Dukas designs stylish bracelets for this purpose.

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This year’s bracelets are made of ecological leather in pink and white and gold plated ribbons for women and black ecological leather for men. The bracelets will be available until the end of the month at all Estee Lauder points of sale, throughout Greece. Find out more here.

All pictures are taken from Estee Lauder’s fan page.

AJMAL YOUNG PERFUMER TALENT HUNT

Are you between 16-21 years old, a United Arab Emirates resident and you ‘ve got a “nose”? Ajmal is looking for you!

Emirati perfume house Ajmal is touring around the UAE until last day of October, stationing at several universities and malls and conducting simple tests, in order to discover the next generation of perfumers. The initial process involves fun, 3-step, scent tests based on perception and memory.

Out of all registers, 20 lucky young and potential “noses” will get specialization through an intensive training program in theory and practice. During finals, the finalists will have to create their own perfumes, based on what they learnt. Five of them will get shortlisted and one of them will be awarded the “Ajmal Young Perfumer Talent Hunt for the year 2013” title.

All 20 will be given gifts and the first 4runner ups will receive cash prizes! As for winner no1, apart from the title and a generous cash cheque, he or she will have the chance to work as an Intern for Firmenich in Dubai and participate in projects for both Ajmal and Firmenich.

For detailed scheduale of Ajmal roadshows and more information on jury and prizes click here.

CIRCUITS BIJOUX: DANS LA LIGNE DE MIRE

Circuits Bijoux is the feast of modern joaillerie! It is an artistic program until March 2014, including 70 exhibitions, conferences and appointments with a single purpose: to get to know better the French contemporary jewelry.

Aurelie Lanoiselee, L'or bleu, 2002 collier-shaun-leane-boucheron-330000 Collection Chanel Haute Couture Automne:Hiver 2010 Emmanuel Lacoste, bijou de langue. Or fin 2006 Astrio Meyer, Pendentif, 2001. mica, fer peint, laiton, bronze, inox

In this program’s framework, the biggest probably event that takes place is the “Dans la ligne de mire, scènes du bijou contemporain en France” exhibition, held in the Musée des Arts décoratifs, Rue de Rivoli, Paris, France. The exhibition hosts characteristic pieces of contemporary jewellery by 55 French, independent designers. Tickets start from 8 Euro and the jewelleries will be on display until March 2nd 2013.

Géraldine Luttenbacher, Bracelet Giverny, 2001 Gilles Jonemann, Collier Nacre. 2012 Maison Hermes, Sac bijou Nausica 2013 Maison Lanvin, Pectoral Dédale, collection Lanvin Eté 2013 Natalia Brilli, Nolex, 2007-2008 derma Taher Chemirik, Collier

Pics are taken from Museum’s website.

THE FASHION WORLD OF JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: FROM SIDEWALK TO CATWALK

Brooklyn Museum of New York pays homage to one of the most influential fashion designers of our ages, Jean Paul Gaultier. Through a multimedia exhibition that includes 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter ensembles, sketches, stage costumes, and many more, Brooklyn museum unfolds the designer’s inspirational and influential path from his childhood, to his first steps in fashion in the 70’s, to the Hermès years and his latest creations.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s teddy bear, Nana, circa 1957 Jean Paul Gaultier (French, b. 1952). Corset-style body suit with garters, 1990, Duchess satin. Worn by Madonna during the “Metropolis” (“Express Yourself”) sequence of the Blond Ambition World Tour (1990). Collection of Madonna, New York

Some of the rare and original exhibits on display are Gaultier’s 56 years old favourite teddy bear, in full make up and accessories styled by him, Madonna’s conical corset that highlighted the years of sexual revolution and the eccentric wedding gown “La Mariée” resembling a mermaid!

Karl Lagerfeld (German, b. 1935). Untitled (Alek Wek) Numéro, March 2000. “Dubar” gown from Jean Paul Gaultier’s “Romantic India” women’s spring-summer haute couture collection of 2000. A design from Jean Paul Gaultier’s “French Cancan” women’s ready-to-wear fall-winter collection of 1991–92, as seen at his thirtieth anniversary retrospective runway show, October 2006. “La Mariée” wedding gown from Jean Paul Gaultier’s “Mermaids” spring-summer haute couture collection of 2008. Latex bodysuit with golden scales; cone bra with shells; long, form-fitting sequined alpaca skirt with latex mermaid’s tail.

Tickets start from 10 Euro. The exhibition will open on October 25th and will last up to February 23rd 2014.

Pictures are taken from exhibition main website.

Summer potions

You know it is Summer, when the notes of intoxicating resins, heavy woods and dark flowers in your perfumes feel just unbearable.

Today, I am sharing with you beloved scents (some of which are part of my personal collection and some are waiting patiently their turn) that I consider perfect fit for the hot, sunny days and the cool, promising summer nights in a light breeze.

Remember that you can always stick to the Eau de Toilettes, Eau de Colognes and Eau Fraiches of your original fragrances, experimenting also with the bath products of their ranges to preserve the scent or replace your perfume.

CHANEL NO19 (1970)

 chanel 19

Personality

I experience no19 it as a refreshing, yet deep green scent, fantastically orchestrated with floral, woody and citrusy notes.

It opens with a blast of green, fresh notes that soon after play around with the iris, oakmoss and vetiver.  It dries down to an absolutely soothing, woody- powdery imprint.

History

19 itself refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel; August 19th. The perfume launched in 1970, a year before the Grande Dame died. No19 is a perfume created by Henri Robert, the Chanel’s in-house perfumer of that time.

Composition

Top notes: Neroli, Green notes and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Rose, Iris, Narcissus and Lily of the valley.

Base notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Oakmoss and Leather.

Chanel No19 comes in Parfum, EDP, EDT and has bath products embellishing the range. Eau de parfum of 50 ml costs 78 Euro.

MAGNETIC SCENT TINDRER (2012)

Magnetic_Scent_11

Personality

Tindrer embodies intense shocks of freshness sniff after sniff. If it was a natural phenomenon, it would be cloudburst. If it was an element, it would be wood dipped in wet soil. If it was colour, it would be green. It opens with an uplifting green scent of wet woods and violet.

Christos Karageorgos has written a very precise review on this masterpiece, here.

History

Tindrer means sparkle in Danish. Spyros Drosopoulos tempted to bottle the feeling of a cold spring morning in countryside, right after the rain. Magnetic Scent is a niche perfume house, producing beautifully unorthodox perfumes.

Composition

Cut Grass, Wet Soil, Cedar, Cypress, Galbanum,

Oakmoss, Violet, Heliotrope, Amber, Musk.

Tindrer comes as Eau de parfum in 50 ml and costs 110 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN (1989)

 jil-sander-sun-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

SUN is full of contradictions. Although an Eau de Toilette, it is one of the few perfumes of its kind that has a long lasting effect and pretty strong sillage. Although marketed as summer scent, it has a protrusive benzoin note that makes it a dark yet sultry scent. Persistent nuances of vanilla and ylang-ylang and an intense dry down to tonka bean and sandalwood, make this paradox what I wear for 10 summers now.

History

Pierre Bourdon created SUN in 1989 for German fashion brand Jil Sander.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Fruity notes, Bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Cassis, Palisander rosewood

Middle notes: Rose, Orris root, Heliotrope, Carnation, Ylang-ylang, Lily of the valley

Base notes: Styrax, Amber, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk, Sandalwood

SUN is available as Eau de toilette in 30 ml and 75 ml. The 30ml flacon costs 23 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN MEN (2002)

jil-sander-sun-men-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

Less complicated than SUN, SUN Men is a fresh spicy fragrance blending ideally all its notes across the structure. Opening introduces fresh bergamot. Then it progresses to spices until it dries down to a warm musky scent. I would classify it as an everyday, -to go option.

History

SUN Men was created by Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori.

Composition

Top notes: Rosemary and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Nutmeg and Cardamom.

Base notes: Sandalwood and Musk.

SUN Men is available as Eau de toilette in 40 ml, 75 ml, 125 ml and 200 ml. The 40ml bottle costs 33 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’IRIS (2007)

 infusion d'iris

Personality

Utterly classy and modern, I predict Infusion D’ Iris to be sold for years and years. This gem is as a floral-woody scent on a powdery background. The opening is a soft transition from citruses and iris to woods. Infusion D’ Iris whispers the swan song with galbanum and vetiver, always under the iris clave. I want to experiment layering it under Prada Amber pour Homme.

History

Daniela Roche Andrier of Givaudan, is the composer of this perfume. A traditional method of iris distillation is the inspiration of its name. During this method, iris is kept soaked for six months before extraction.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Neroli, Orange, Mandarine.

Middle notes: Iris, Mastic, Galbanum.

Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Incense, Benzoin.

Infusion d’Iris comes as Parfum in 3.5ml and 7.5ml, as EDP 50ml, 100ml and 200ml and as EDT and has bath products too. Eau de parfum 50 ml costs 75 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’HOMME (2008)

 Infusion-homme-Prada

Personality

Beautifully crafted, this is a long lasting, soapy and softly woody-balmy scent. I will dare to say it is a rather unisex perfume. First sniff takes you to neroli and a powdery iris. Time plays with Infusion’s vetiver, olibanium, benzoin and cedar notes, bringing back and forth the iris card.

History

What a Duchess is without her Duke? Following the success of the first, female Infusion, Daniela Andrier and Prada released a year after Infusion D’Homme, a fragrance that has been worked for years. Infusion duo basically is the second fragrance launch from Prada.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarine, Tunisian Neroli.

Middle notes: Iris, Vetiver, Virginian cedar, Galbanum.

Base notes: Powdery notes, Olibanium, Benzoin.

Infusion D’Homme comes as Eau de Toilette in 50 ml and 100ml and has a bath set too. 50ml of the juice cost 57 Euro.

ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE LILT (2012)

 Lilt

Personality

As I mentioned in a previous post, this fragrance is a journey. For whoever grew up near fig trees and want to preserve this recollection throughout summer, this unique juice is a must! Lilt goes on as very green and aromatic, opening with freshly cut fig and green notes and evolving to fruits wrapped in musk. It is long lasting and has strong sillage.

History

Lilt belongs to the first batch of creations by Alexandra De Montfort, along with Chatoyant, Vespers and Inspiration. As Madame De Montfort stated, the purpose of these perfumes is to awaken and enhance memories.

Composition

Top notes: Green leaves, Fig leaf.

Middle notes: Peach, Coconut, Violet.

Base notes: Musk, Vetiver.

Lilt comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml and costs 82 Euro.

  

ESTEE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS EAU FRAICHE SKINSCENT(2013)

bronze goddess 

Personality

Dangerously sexy and entirely tropical, Bronze Goddess is the indisputable scent of the summer. Solar, warm and milky, it gives me a prominent coconut note followed by a blend of perfectly balanced citruses and florals. At this point I want to announce that this is the first and only perfume I like from the Estee range and express a deep wish of mine: to find a tanning lotion carrying this sublime scent.

 History

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche is the 2013 edition of the annual Bronze Goddess tradition that started in 2007 with Azuree Soleil.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarin, Sicilian Citron, Calabrese Bergamot, Orange, Lavender, Lemon tree leaves

Middle notes: Milk, Indian jasmine, Grapefruit, Pink Lily, Orange blossom, Tunisian Neroli

Base notes: Amber, Musk, Iris, Woody notes

The Eau fraiche comes in 100 ml and costs 45 Euro. There is body oil accompanying the release.

DIOR ADDICT EAU DELICE (2013)

addict eau DELICEjpg 

Personality

The perfect girly scent for a luminous summer… This is what a more Barbie focused, Kubrick’s Lolita might have worn in that hot, sticky, 50’s summer.

Addict Eau Delice has a fruity, floral and musky scent. The perfume opens with a splash of sweetness from cranberry, carrying on to freshness from jasmine and ylang-ylang. After some time Addict Eau Delice concludes with creamy musk.

For my Dutch readers, Marjolein reviews extensively the perfume launch in her Another Fashion Lover website.

History

This perfume is a sweeter, fruitier version of the original, interpreted by Francois Demachy. The original is Addict, created on 2002 by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Cranberry, Bergamot, Orange, and Cherry

Middle notes: Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian and Indian Jasmine, Rose, Bitter Almond

Base notes: White Musk, Cedar, and Vanilla

Addict Eau Delice come as Eau de Toilette in 20ml, 50 ml and 100ml and 20ml costs 50 Euro. If you are looking for a bath line, have a look at the original Addict’s range.

AMOUAGE DIA WOMEN (2002)

dia_womens_large_normal

Personality

All you need to notice the first-degree kinship is few minutes after the opening. Having prominent aldehydic notes, Dia and legendary Chanel No5 can be first or second cousins. What differentiates them though, is how they evolve over time.

Dia is regal and undoubtedly suits a romantic yet conscious, a true lady. It is a clean composition that morphs from floral, to lightly woody, to soapy. Though not my type, I certainly appreciate its depth and complexity.

History

Jean-Claude Ellena crafted Dia in 2002.

Composition

Top notes: Fig, Bergamot, Sage, Violet leaves, Tarragon, Cyclamen, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Orris root, Turkish Rose oil, Peach blossom, Peony, Orange  blossom.

Base notes: Heliotrope, Guaiac wood, Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White Musk, Cedarwood.

Dia comes as Extrait de Parfum in 50 ml for 310 Euro, as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 200 euro and in 100 ml for 235 euro. Dia has a full bath and body range and candles.

AMOUAGE CIEL WOMEN (2003)

 ciel_womens_new_large_normal

Personality

Ciel is a pot of gardenia, at the higher spot of your balcony. There, where it can grab the woody scents of the nearby grove in the air and dress in them, when it pleases so. Ciel as a name is just the password to summer. Other than that it does not resemble any aquatic element. Ciel is a flowery-woody, ethereal composition that worth attention.

History

Ciel was launched in summer 2003. 

Composition

Top notes: Cyclamen, Gardenia, Violet leaf.

Middle notes: Peach blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Water lily.

Base notes: Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Insence, Cedarwood.

Ciel comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 190 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.

AMOUAGE THE LIBRARY COLLECTION OPUS III (2010)

 opus III

Personality

Opus III is the ideal companion to those afternoon and evening summer walks in the woods, villages, parks. Warm woods and bright flowers, as the scent itself: a dry floral and woody composition with a sweet and powdery dry down. If you are a keen violet lover, then this perfume is for you. Violet is the definite protagonist in all the moments of the scent’s unwrapping. It reminds me a lot Guerlain Insolence, until half its longevity.

History

Opus III is a creation by Karin Vinchon Spehner. The perfume is launch number three, belonging to the luxurious Library Collection of Amouage.

Composition

Top notes: Mimosa, Broom, Carnation, Nutmeg, Thyme.

Heart notes: Violet, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, African Orange Blossom.

Base notes: Ambrette, Musk, Papyrus, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Frankincense.

Eau de Parfum 100ml for 275 Euro.

TOM FORD GREY VETIVER MEN (2009)

grey vetiver

Personality

Vetiver grass smells quite intense and aggressive. Grey Vetiver is the most polite interpretation Vetiver can have. It opens with tuned down-not so sparkly citruses and involves to a delicious light spicy-woody compilation of nutmeg, oakmoss, warm wood and most of all vetiver! It has moderate power and longetivity and I consider it a great tool in layering perfumes.

History

In this section, I want to give extra credit to the impeccable art deco flacon, which is a jewel on its own…

Composition

Top notes: Orange flower, Grapefruit.

Middle notes: Sage, Nutmeg.

Base notes: Vetiver, Warm wood, Orris root, Amberwood, Oakmoss.

Grey Vetiver comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 75 Euro and in 100ml for 104 Euro. The range also includes after shave balm.

 

TOM FORD OMBRE DE HYACINTH (2012)

ombre de hyacinth

Personality

This has to be my third most favourite creation out of the Private Blend range. Beautiful, aromatic hyacinth is the centre of attention, evolving nicely with violet and jasmine. Galbanum gives it a bitter taste but it definitely is a green, earthy perfume.

History

Ombre de Hyacinth is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Galbanum, Violet leaf, Magnolia petals and Olibanum.

Middle notes: Hyacinth, Pink pepper and Jasmine.

Base notes: Galbanum, Benzoin and Musk.

Ombre De Hyacinth belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

TOM FORD LYS FUME (2012)

lys fume

Personality

When I picked up the bottle to smell Lys Fume, I was hoping to find in it something similar to Guerlain’s Lys Soleia (included in the same post, just below) or something smokey, tropical and irresistible. To my surprise I found neither the one, nor the other.

Lys Fume is all about lily in nucleus and ylang ylang and vanilla in orbit to complement the protagonist. The reason why I added this perfume in this post is because it is still a very nice scent to sport in summer mornings.

History

Lys Fume is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Italian mandarin, Pink pepper, Turmeric and Nutmeg.

Middle notes: White lily, Ylang-ylang, Artemisia and Rum.

Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Labdanum, Styrax, Oak, Vanilla.

Lys Fume belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA LYS SOLEIA (2012)

lys soleia

Personality

This juice has something narcotic in it. In every spray, time stops, a breeze passes indolently through the palm leaves and the watering machine quenches the thirst of flowers…

Sun, Lilies, ylang- ylang and tuberose dipped in vanilla and dried on musk. Highly recommended for morning hours and beach excursions!

History

Released in 2012, Lys Soleia was composed by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Bergamot, Amalfi lemon and Palm leaves.

Heart notes: Lily, Ylang-ylang, and Tropical fruits.

Base notes: Tuberose, Vanilla and White Musk.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro and in 125 ml.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA NEROLIA BIANCA (2013)

nerolia bianca

Personality

Juicy, Mouthwatering, sparkling orange! Very citrusy, highly aromatic, this is a beautiful composition that goes nicely with carefree mood… Highly recommended if you are a smoker, as the citruses neutralizes the smell of tobacco.

History

Nerolia Bianca is Thierry Wasser’s attempt to create a perfume extracting every bit of a bitter orange tree.

Composition

Main notes: Orange blossom, Bitter orange, Orange, Leaves of petit grain, Neroli, Twigs.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro.

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA TIARE MIMOSA (2009)

tiare mimosa 

Personality

Brighter than the sun, this scent is sensual beyond limits! Mimosa, tiare and lemon blend perfectly with each other during the opening and throughout the experience, leading to a sweet, musky trail.

Highly recommended for layering during summer vacations under a musk- peppery scent and for brides to be!

History

To know more about Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line visit Perfumeshrine’s Elena Vosnaki article here.

Composition

Main notes: Mimose, Tiare flower, Amalfi lemon, Musk, Vanilla, Pink pepper.

I hope you can still find Tiare Mimose in some big cosmetics stores, small corner perfumeries and definitely around the web. Prices start from 60 Euro for 75ml.

 

GUERLAIN LA COLOGNE DU PARFUMER (2010)

cologne parfumer

Personality

It is uplifting and clean! Green, almost grassy notes mix well with polite citruses. As it is Eau de Cologne, longevity is not great. Perfect for freshening up and layering with woody perfumes. For more details watch Pelle Suringa, who is the man behind Geurenland, in this video reviewing the Cologne.

History

Thierry Wasser originally created this Cologne for himself. The creation happened in the same era as of Idylle, during his time off.

Composition

Main notes: African orange flower, Citruses, Amalfi lemon, Rosemary, Lavender, Mint.

La Cologne Du Parfumer is an Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 90Euro.

 

GUERLAIN EAU DE COLOGNE IMPERIALE (1853)

 eau de cologne imperiale Eau-de-Cologne-Imperiale-Guerlain-Parfum_high

Personality

This is sparkling, green and very yellow! Citruses here are loud and they are capable of waking you up in a sniff of a nose. Longevity is poor, however is an excellent choice to preserve the freshness after a cool shower and to layer over it citrusy, light woody fragrances. You may also use it for its original purpose: battle the headache. Simply damp the juice on a cool piece of cloth and keep it on your forehead for 10 minutes.

 History

Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, Founder of Maison Guerlain, undertook the responsibility of crafting a remedy for Empress Eugenie’s, wife of Napoleon III, severe headaches. The alluring creation ensured Pierre Francois a conspicuous place inside royal houses and the prestigious title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Citruses, Lemon verbena, Neroli, Bergamot and Lemon.

Base notes: Rosemary, Tonka bean and Cedar.

The historic perfume comes as Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 85Euro.

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR PARFUM INITIAL (2011)

shalimar parfum initial l'eau

Personality

Firstly we have to agree that Shalimar Parfum Initial range stands off from its progenitor, Shalimar. Then let’s admire the same exact materials used in both the old and new fragrances, but in a twisted row.

Shalimar Parfum Initial l’Eau is a feast of spring and is a lot less powdery and sweet than its original and Shalimar itself. The addition of grapefruit and flowers, such as lily of the valley, hyacinth and more, in the citrusy- floral-oriental composition, give a fresher and lighter result. Iris and bergamot are always present. It all ends to a warm, creamy result with the help of vanilla.

History

With Shalimar Parfum Initial range, composer Thierry Wasser aimed to reformulate for younger audiences the cornerstone of Guerlain fragrances, Shalimar. The original Shalimar is a Jacques Guerlain creation of 1925. Shalimar Parfum Initial Eau de Parfum was launched in 2011 and its l’Eau version in 2012. This year there is L’Eau Si Sensuelle version, which corresponds to L’Eau, bottled in glacé.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Neroli

Heart notes: Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Freesia, Hyacinth

Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka bean.

The perfume is available as Eau de Toilette in 40ml for 45 Euro, 60 ml and 100 ml.

 

GUERLAIN JICKY (1889)

jicky

Personality

The first time I experienced the original blend of Jicky I picked up a fight with my friend Maxime. I debated hard on how overestimated this scent was, strongly influenced of its rough opening, and I was wrong. The second time I applied Jicky, I was alone and I had all the time I needed, to watch it evolving deeply.

I feel it was a progressive release for its era and I imagine it was a favourite among some type of witty, multi traveled, unprejudiced ladies, who were enjoying high social statuses and even though they did not show how powerful they were, they could crush you blandly.

Every time I sniff Jicky something green and animalic hits me, until it dries down to a balmy-leathery trail. Jicky is a very complex construction, yet an alive piece of history.

History

Jicky was a revolutionary creation, being one of the first perfumes including synthetic materials. Aime Guerlain composed Jicky in 1889, inspired by his love for a girl he met, during his academic years in England. The flacon reminisces the original 19th century’s medicinal bottles and the stopper that of a champagne’s bottle.

Composition

Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Rosemary and Bergamot.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, Lavender, Orris root, Jasmine, Basil.

Base Notes: Vanilla, Opoponax, Benzoin, Brazilian rosewood, Amber, Sandalwood, Leather, Spices.

Jicky is available as Parfum in 30ml for 270Euro, as Eau de Parfum

in 50 ml for 86 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 93ml for 98 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN MAYOTTE (2006)

mayotte

Personality

Mayotte is beautiful! It has an intoxicating white floral-woody scent that gets better and better as it dries. In the beginning you get tuberose and ylang ylang with hints of vanilla and at the finale soft woods that preserve the tropical element.

I want to imagine it on bronzed skin, dressed in a strawberry red sexy dress. If you will have your vacations on an island, Mayotte is the perfect choice to create an olfactory memory album with.

History

Mayotte was named after the complex of two small French islands and islets, located over Madagascar and it belongs to the Parisiennes collection of Guerlain. In 2000, Jean Paul Guerlain created Mahora, a perfume that resembles Mayotte intensely. If you were a fan of the now discontinued Mahora, then give Mayotte a try. 

Composition

Top: Frangipani and Neroli.

Heart: Ylang-Ylang, Indian jasmine, Tuberose.

Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Vetiver.

Mayotte is available as Eau de Parfum in 125ml for 223Euro.

 

GUERLAIN LES VOYAGES OLFACTIF 01 PARIS-MOSCOW (2009)

paris-moscow

Personality

Paris-Moscow is a citrusy-flower scent with a hint of woods. Tonka bean is in the middle of a mystical ceremony having citruses and plum dancing around it. As the perfume dries down I sense vanilla, light green notes and lemon. The grand finale happens with musk and jasmine in a creamy duet.

I do not know if the scent symbolizes Moscow in any way, but I do know that it could be a reference to a warm summer in Paris.

History

Les Voyages Olfactif Collection, or else the Olfactive Journeys, is a compilation of five –up to now- fragrances/ postcards, each inspired by the rhythm of five different capitals: Moscow, New York, Tokyo, London, Shanghai.

Composition

Top notes: Absinth, Lemon, Bergamot, Red currant, Plum, Pine needles.

Heart notes: Jasmine.

Base notes: Tonka bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White musk.

The perfume is available as Eau de Parfum, in the travel and aeroplane-friendly quantity of 100ml for 178Euro.

Which is the scent of your Summer?

Disclaimer: None of the pictures in this post have taken by me.