Healthier skincare habits

During the past months my skin has been exposed daily for first time after 7 years to cold weather, as I have moved from the extreme heat of Gulf countries, to the fresh and crispy European air. Apart from the different weather conditions, I saw my extremely sensitive and combination-oily skin getting red easier, being 10 times more than before unforgiving to comedogenic ingredients such as Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco glycerides, Caprylic Triglyceride, pure Almond oil and more. The message was clear: From now and on, I should use on my skin products that are as pure as possible.

This post will cover my slaloms between faulty products, new skincare habits for face and body, easy tips to create homemade skin care remedies and few products that preserved and improved the condition of my skin.

FACE

Cleanser

Since 2009 I have mainly been using Nuxe’s Reve de Miel cleansing gel. Its base is honey (fourth ingredient), embellished with many rubbish ingredients such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (third in list and high in concentration), peg-8 esters and more. Regardless, Nuxe’s cleanser was the most reliable out of an extensive list of tragic products (La Roche Posay Lait Physiologique, Guelrain Blanc de Perle cleansing foam and Secret de Purete foaming cream, Avene Soapless gel cleanser and Extremely Gentle cleanser and many many more).

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Therefore, I decided to start using pure, clean honey. I am pleased with the results as it leaves my skin soft, not dry at all, yet clean. However, I make sure I clean my face twice in a row with it to secure results. During second wash I also use a cleansing brush similar to Clarisonic, by Ayvo.

Demaquillage

Eaux Micellaires is the most fresh and easiest way to remove make up effectively and that is why more and more brands add one micellaire in their range.

Who hasn’t tried or read about Bioderma’s  Sensibio H2O Solution Micellaire?  It is one of the first micellaires and a product I have been used and trusted for years, along with thousands of others among you. Those Capric glycerides however, made my skin not appreciating it as much as I would like. The area around the eye was always left with small red spots and of course I would not dare to swipe that cotton pad soaked in Sensibio all over my face.

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Looking for environmental friendlier demaquillage options, I tried sweet almond oil for eyes and jojoba oil for face. Apart from the twice the effort to remove all make up, I also was also left with blurry eyes from almond and red spots which stayed up to next day on face and they eye area.

Lately I discovered a couple of new Garnier micellar waters products, which are effective and have safe ingredients. Specially the Cleansing water (the one in huge bottle) is perfect for my sensitive skin and leaves it spot free and clean. For me, both Garnier waters and that of Bioderma’s clean the same well. The difference is on skin’s hygiene.

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Toner

As I have replaced many poor performing marketed products with natural, so I did with my toner! To be honest I have not tried that many branded toners (the latest was the uber moisturizing Guerlain’s Super Aqua lotion), but I find it a little stiff and useless for its purpose to pay anything from 10 to 41 Euro for a product full preservatives, and fabricated emollients.

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My homemade remedy is the following: I use a small container made of dark glass (to preserve the ingredients’ beneficial properties) and I fill it with the following proportions according to its size.

2/4 freshly squeezed lemon (astringent and whitening properties)

¼ freshly squeezed mandarine (for radiance)

¼ freshly blended cucumber (immaculate hydrating properties)

Sometimes I might pour a little more cucumber than lemon, to balance it. Shake well before use! I make sure to use the toner only at night due to citric acid, and next day I wear 30+ SPF regardless if it is sunny or not. I also want to note that this remedy and specifically lemon has helped me A LOT to deal with my melasma problem.

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Moisturizing cream

My most recent failure in hydration was Dr. Organic’s Aloe Vera concentrated hydrating cream, which was the worse thing I have ever used in my life without exaggeration. It is full of silicones, coco glycerides, parabens, in other words nothing but organic. It is rubbish as a facial cream but it works well as a cream for feet!

Anyhow, apart from failures we also have successes and one of these is Apivita’s Aqua Vita 24 hour moisturizing cream. The one I use now is for oily/combination skin. I have also used the one for dry skin about 8 months ago (early autumn), which however I found a little drying and not well absorbing. The one for combination skin works great, has a light texture, does not leave a film on skin, it absorbs pretty quickly and leaves skin matt. Its best part? It is made of 98% natural ingredients and none scary one for us who have sensitive skin.

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Serum

I bought Apivita’s Natural Serum with aloe and hyaluronic acid in order to use it as a moisturizer. It carries the name “serum” and as one can think it could be thick and rich, yet it is runny and very light. To be honest I see this working better in oily skins and under heat.

It is absorbed directly and dries mat, making a perfect base for make up. Initially I appreciated all the 98% natural ingredients, but something was irritating my skin each time I applied the serum. I cannot tell yet which ingredient. All in all the serum is somehow moisturizing, but not what I expected.

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Scrub

I have abandoned branded scrubs since many years ago. What was I using? Penicillin!

Penicillin or else aspirin diluted in water, with a tablespoon of honey. I was happy with the results and the salicylic acid was keeping break outs away. The only issue was that aspirin is a little harsh to scrub against a sensitive skin as mine and most importantly it did not work well with the melasma spots on my forehead and cheeks.

A friend of mine introduced me to a life changing product. I would not dare to use the term “life changing” if the scrub he gave me wouldn’t help diminish my melasma spots!

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It is a biological peeling from Meditopics, a Dutch brand and is used by many beauty clinics and dermatologists in the Netherlands. It is 100%biological and safe to use even for people with sensitive skin. Surprisingly it doesn’t dry out the skin and is safe to use as often as every other day. I place about half a spoon (included in box) of powder in my palm. I drop few drops of water and make a thick paste. I then apply it on my face and I lightly scrub allover and the problematic areas. I let it dry and then I rinse it well.

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What is really encouraging is the fact that helped diminishing the dark spots I have, thing that I struggle with since 2008. I am not using any other special treatment for the dark spots for a couple of years now. Just the scrub 2 times per week, the Ayvo brush (similar to Clarisonic) daily and every morning my SPF. DSC03498

Eyes

How hard is to find a decent eye cream? The market is pretty disappointing in this field. Most eye creams are either too sticky, or too thick, or drying, or “poor”. I have done two posts in the past dedicated to eye creams and if the following cream existed or I could find it in Dubai back then, I would have included it.

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This is Apivita’s anti wrinkle eye mask with grape with 99% natural ingredients. It is marketed as a mask, however according to the ingredients list it is 100% identical to anti wrinke’s eye and lip cream from the brand’s wine elixir line. The only difference is in the price as a 15ml pot of the cream costs 37.90 Euro and 16ml of 8 mask-cream packages cost 14 Euro. On to the cream itself, I love how fast absorbing and well hydrating it is. Nothing heavy, nothing smelly, just an extremely comfortable wearing eye cream, which is a good base for concealer as well.

BODY

Scrub

I decided to use from now and on a scrub remedy that I made of my own, when I realized the difference in results! The body scrubs that I used in the past were leaving my skin soft but not as moisturized. What is the key here? Olive oil! Have a look at the remedy:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2,5 tablespoons black sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange

Mix well all ingredients and use it fresh during shower or bath. You could also leave the mix in the fridge for 10 minutes to “unify”.

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Hydration

This is Apivita’s refreshing body milk with aloe and fig. I picked it initially for its not mainstream scent and the alluring ingredients. It absorbs quickly, the scent stays for hours and its properties as moisturizer suit perfectly combination skins and summer weather! For winter and dried out skin, I would choose a heavier formula.

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Now, I want to point out how annoying are Alcohol and Parfum as body lotion ingredients. Most lotions (including those out of perfume ranges) contain this ingredients high in their list and in high concentration, making the lotion useless and drying. If you really like the body lotions of your favourite perfumes, yet you find them drying I recommend trying the following: Buy a fragrance free body lotion with nice ingredients and before each time you apply it over your skin, spray/drop just a few drops of your perfume. In this way you will not only prolong your perfume’s effect, but you will also ensure your skin is well moisturized.

Hands

Hand creams are important for me, as I used them often throughout the day and before sleep at night. For many years I was alternating between Neutrogena’s original, Nivea’s Hydra IQ and original formula, Dove’s visible effects and few other drugstore hand creams. Sadly and regardless of their effectiveness (for instance Neutrogena cream is pleasant to use) they all have parabens and even some have mineral oil (Nivea range).

I recently choose Apivita’s moisturizing hand cream with aloe and honey, in light texture. Its 98%natural components consistency is far from “dangerous” in harmful ingredients than that of many other hand creams. It is perfect to use during the day, as it doesn’t leave the skin “sweaty”, it absorbs quickly and has a discreet clean scent. In other words, superb!

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At this point I want to underline that I am not affiliated to neither Meditopics, nor Apivita, that the products were purchased by me and that I decided to include them in this honest post because I find them way much better than other so called organic or natural or pharmaceutical products. It also worth pointing out that before I buy them I researched thoroughly their ingredients list and examined each ingredient with the help of Environmental Working Group http://www.ewg.org, as I wanted to use products as natural as they can get.

 

What are your healthy skincare habits?

 

Summer potions

You know it is Summer, when the notes of intoxicating resins, heavy woods and dark flowers in your perfumes feel just unbearable.

Today, I am sharing with you beloved scents (some of which are part of my personal collection and some are waiting patiently their turn) that I consider perfect fit for the hot, sunny days and the cool, promising summer nights in a light breeze.

Remember that you can always stick to the Eau de Toilettes, Eau de Colognes and Eau Fraiches of your original fragrances, experimenting also with the bath products of their ranges to preserve the scent or replace your perfume.

CHANEL NO19 (1970)

 chanel 19

Personality

I experience no19 it as a refreshing, yet deep green scent, fantastically orchestrated with floral, woody and citrusy notes.

It opens with a blast of green, fresh notes that soon after play around with the iris, oakmoss and vetiver.  It dries down to an absolutely soothing, woody- powdery imprint.

History

19 itself refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel; August 19th. The perfume launched in 1970, a year before the Grande Dame died. No19 is a perfume created by Henri Robert, the Chanel’s in-house perfumer of that time.

Composition

Top notes: Neroli, Green notes and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Rose, Iris, Narcissus and Lily of the valley.

Base notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Oakmoss and Leather.

Chanel No19 comes in Parfum, EDP, EDT and has bath products embellishing the range. Eau de parfum of 50 ml costs 78 Euro.

MAGNETIC SCENT TINDRER (2012)

Magnetic_Scent_11

Personality

Tindrer embodies intense shocks of freshness sniff after sniff. If it was a natural phenomenon, it would be cloudburst. If it was an element, it would be wood dipped in wet soil. If it was colour, it would be green. It opens with an uplifting green scent of wet woods and violet.

Christos Karageorgos has written a very precise review on this masterpiece, here.

History

Tindrer means sparkle in Danish. Spyros Drosopoulos tempted to bottle the feeling of a cold spring morning in countryside, right after the rain. Magnetic Scent is a niche perfume house, producing beautifully unorthodox perfumes.

Composition

Cut Grass, Wet Soil, Cedar, Cypress, Galbanum,

Oakmoss, Violet, Heliotrope, Amber, Musk.

Tindrer comes as Eau de parfum in 50 ml and costs 110 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN (1989)

 jil-sander-sun-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

SUN is full of contradictions. Although an Eau de Toilette, it is one of the few perfumes of its kind that has a long lasting effect and pretty strong sillage. Although marketed as summer scent, it has a protrusive benzoin note that makes it a dark yet sultry scent. Persistent nuances of vanilla and ylang-ylang and an intense dry down to tonka bean and sandalwood, make this paradox what I wear for 10 summers now.

History

Pierre Bourdon created SUN in 1989 for German fashion brand Jil Sander.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Fruity notes, Bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Cassis, Palisander rosewood

Middle notes: Rose, Orris root, Heliotrope, Carnation, Ylang-ylang, Lily of the valley

Base notes: Styrax, Amber, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk, Sandalwood

SUN is available as Eau de toilette in 30 ml and 75 ml. The 30ml flacon costs 23 Euro.

JIL SANDER SUN MEN (2002)

jil-sander-sun-men-eau-de-toilette-75ml05

Personality

Less complicated than SUN, SUN Men is a fresh spicy fragrance blending ideally all its notes across the structure. Opening introduces fresh bergamot. Then it progresses to spices until it dries down to a warm musky scent. I would classify it as an everyday, -to go option.

History

SUN Men was created by Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori.

Composition

Top notes: Rosemary and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Nutmeg and Cardamom.

Base notes: Sandalwood and Musk.

SUN Men is available as Eau de toilette in 40 ml, 75 ml, 125 ml and 200 ml. The 40ml bottle costs 33 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’IRIS (2007)

 infusion d'iris

Personality

Utterly classy and modern, I predict Infusion D’ Iris to be sold for years and years. This gem is as a floral-woody scent on a powdery background. The opening is a soft transition from citruses and iris to woods. Infusion D’ Iris whispers the swan song with galbanum and vetiver, always under the iris clave. I want to experiment layering it under Prada Amber pour Homme.

History

Daniela Roche Andrier of Givaudan, is the composer of this perfume. A traditional method of iris distillation is the inspiration of its name. During this method, iris is kept soaked for six months before extraction.

Composition

Top notes: African orange flower, Neroli, Orange, Mandarine.

Middle notes: Iris, Mastic, Galbanum.

Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Incense, Benzoin.

Infusion d’Iris comes as Parfum in 3.5ml and 7.5ml, as EDP 50ml, 100ml and 200ml and as EDT and has bath products too. Eau de parfum 50 ml costs 75 Euro.

PRADA INFUSION D’HOMME (2008)

 Infusion-homme-Prada

Personality

Beautifully crafted, this is a long lasting, soapy and softly woody-balmy scent. I will dare to say it is a rather unisex perfume. First sniff takes you to neroli and a powdery iris. Time plays with Infusion’s vetiver, olibanium, benzoin and cedar notes, bringing back and forth the iris card.

History

What a Duchess is without her Duke? Following the success of the first, female Infusion, Daniela Andrier and Prada released a year after Infusion D’Homme, a fragrance that has been worked for years. Infusion duo basically is the second fragrance launch from Prada.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarine, Tunisian Neroli.

Middle notes: Iris, Vetiver, Virginian cedar, Galbanum.

Base notes: Powdery notes, Olibanium, Benzoin.

Infusion D’Homme comes as Eau de Toilette in 50 ml and 100ml and has a bath set too. 50ml of the juice cost 57 Euro.

ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE LILT (2012)

 Lilt

Personality

As I mentioned in a previous post, this fragrance is a journey. For whoever grew up near fig trees and want to preserve this recollection throughout summer, this unique juice is a must! Lilt goes on as very green and aromatic, opening with freshly cut fig and green notes and evolving to fruits wrapped in musk. It is long lasting and has strong sillage.

History

Lilt belongs to the first batch of creations by Alexandra De Montfort, along with Chatoyant, Vespers and Inspiration. As Madame De Montfort stated, the purpose of these perfumes is to awaken and enhance memories.

Composition

Top notes: Green leaves, Fig leaf.

Middle notes: Peach, Coconut, Violet.

Base notes: Musk, Vetiver.

Lilt comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml and costs 82 Euro.

  

ESTEE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS EAU FRAICHE SKINSCENT(2013)

bronze goddess 

Personality

Dangerously sexy and entirely tropical, Bronze Goddess is the indisputable scent of the summer. Solar, warm and milky, it gives me a prominent coconut note followed by a blend of perfectly balanced citruses and florals. At this point I want to announce that this is the first and only perfume I like from the Estee range and express a deep wish of mine: to find a tanning lotion carrying this sublime scent.

 History

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche is the 2013 edition of the annual Bronze Goddess tradition that started in 2007 with Azuree Soleil.

Composition

Top notes: Mandarin, Sicilian Citron, Calabrese Bergamot, Orange, Lavender, Lemon tree leaves

Middle notes: Milk, Indian jasmine, Grapefruit, Pink Lily, Orange blossom, Tunisian Neroli

Base notes: Amber, Musk, Iris, Woody notes

The Eau fraiche comes in 100 ml and costs 45 Euro. There is body oil accompanying the release.

DIOR ADDICT EAU DELICE (2013)

addict eau DELICEjpg 

Personality

The perfect girly scent for a luminous summer… This is what a more Barbie focused, Kubrick’s Lolita might have worn in that hot, sticky, 50’s summer.

Addict Eau Delice has a fruity, floral and musky scent. The perfume opens with a splash of sweetness from cranberry, carrying on to freshness from jasmine and ylang-ylang. After some time Addict Eau Delice concludes with creamy musk.

For my Dutch readers, Marjolein reviews extensively the perfume launch in her Another Fashion Lover website.

History

This perfume is a sweeter, fruitier version of the original, interpreted by Francois Demachy. The original is Addict, created on 2002 by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Cranberry, Bergamot, Orange, and Cherry

Middle notes: Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian and Indian Jasmine, Rose, Bitter Almond

Base notes: White Musk, Cedar, and Vanilla

Addict Eau Delice come as Eau de Toilette in 20ml, 50 ml and 100ml and 20ml costs 50 Euro. If you are looking for a bath line, have a look at the original Addict’s range.

AMOUAGE DIA WOMEN (2002)

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Personality

All you need to notice the first-degree kinship is few minutes after the opening. Having prominent aldehydic notes, Dia and legendary Chanel No5 can be first or second cousins. What differentiates them though, is how they evolve over time.

Dia is regal and undoubtedly suits a romantic yet conscious, a true lady. It is a clean composition that morphs from floral, to lightly woody, to soapy. Though not my type, I certainly appreciate its depth and complexity.

History

Jean-Claude Ellena crafted Dia in 2002.

Composition

Top notes: Fig, Bergamot, Sage, Violet leaves, Tarragon, Cyclamen, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Orris root, Turkish Rose oil, Peach blossom, Peony, Orange  blossom.

Base notes: Heliotrope, Guaiac wood, Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White Musk, Cedarwood.

Dia comes as Extrait de Parfum in 50 ml for 310 Euro, as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 200 euro and in 100 ml for 235 euro. Dia has a full bath and body range and candles.

AMOUAGE CIEL WOMEN (2003)

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Personality

Ciel is a pot of gardenia, at the higher spot of your balcony. There, where it can grab the woody scents of the nearby grove in the air and dress in them, when it pleases so. Ciel as a name is just the password to summer. Other than that it does not resemble any aquatic element. Ciel is a flowery-woody, ethereal composition that worth attention.

History

Ciel was launched in summer 2003. 

Composition

Top notes: Cyclamen, Gardenia, Violet leaf.

Middle notes: Peach blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Water lily.

Base notes: Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Insence, Cedarwood.

Ciel comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 190 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.

AMOUAGE THE LIBRARY COLLECTION OPUS III (2010)

 opus III

Personality

Opus III is the ideal companion to those afternoon and evening summer walks in the woods, villages, parks. Warm woods and bright flowers, as the scent itself: a dry floral and woody composition with a sweet and powdery dry down. If you are a keen violet lover, then this perfume is for you. Violet is the definite protagonist in all the moments of the scent’s unwrapping. It reminds me a lot Guerlain Insolence, until half its longevity.

History

Opus III is a creation by Karin Vinchon Spehner. The perfume is launch number three, belonging to the luxurious Library Collection of Amouage.

Composition

Top notes: Mimosa, Broom, Carnation, Nutmeg, Thyme.

Heart notes: Violet, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, African Orange Blossom.

Base notes: Ambrette, Musk, Papyrus, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Frankincense.

Eau de Parfum 100ml for 275 Euro.

TOM FORD GREY VETIVER MEN (2009)

grey vetiver

Personality

Vetiver grass smells quite intense and aggressive. Grey Vetiver is the most polite interpretation Vetiver can have. It opens with tuned down-not so sparkly citruses and involves to a delicious light spicy-woody compilation of nutmeg, oakmoss, warm wood and most of all vetiver! It has moderate power and longetivity and I consider it a great tool in layering perfumes.

History

In this section, I want to give extra credit to the impeccable art deco flacon, which is a jewel on its own…

Composition

Top notes: Orange flower, Grapefruit.

Middle notes: Sage, Nutmeg.

Base notes: Vetiver, Warm wood, Orris root, Amberwood, Oakmoss.

Grey Vetiver comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 75 Euro and in 100ml for 104 Euro. The range also includes after shave balm.

 

TOM FORD OMBRE DE HYACINTH (2012)

ombre de hyacinth

Personality

This has to be my third most favourite creation out of the Private Blend range. Beautiful, aromatic hyacinth is the centre of attention, evolving nicely with violet and jasmine. Galbanum gives it a bitter taste but it definitely is a green, earthy perfume.

History

Ombre de Hyacinth is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Galbanum, Violet leaf, Magnolia petals and Olibanum.

Middle notes: Hyacinth, Pink pepper and Jasmine.

Base notes: Galbanum, Benzoin and Musk.

Ombre De Hyacinth belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

TOM FORD LYS FUME (2012)

lys fume

Personality

When I picked up the bottle to smell Lys Fume, I was hoping to find in it something similar to Guerlain’s Lys Soleia (included in the same post, just below) or something smokey, tropical and irresistible. To my surprise I found neither the one, nor the other.

Lys Fume is all about lily in nucleus and ylang ylang and vanilla in orbit to complement the protagonist. The reason why I added this perfume in this post is because it is still a very nice scent to sport in summer mornings.

History

Lys Fume is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.

Composition

Top notes: Italian mandarin, Pink pepper, Turmeric and Nutmeg.

Middle notes: White lily, Ylang-ylang, Artemisia and Rum.

Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Labdanum, Styrax, Oak, Vanilla.

Lys Fume belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA LYS SOLEIA (2012)

lys soleia

Personality

This juice has something narcotic in it. In every spray, time stops, a breeze passes indolently through the palm leaves and the watering machine quenches the thirst of flowers…

Sun, Lilies, ylang- ylang and tuberose dipped in vanilla and dried on musk. Highly recommended for morning hours and beach excursions!

History

Released in 2012, Lys Soleia was composed by Thierry Wasser.

Composition

Top notes: Bergamot, Amalfi lemon and Palm leaves.

Heart notes: Lily, Ylang-ylang, and Tropical fruits.

Base notes: Tuberose, Vanilla and White Musk.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro and in 125 ml.

 

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA NEROLIA BIANCA (2013)

nerolia bianca

Personality

Juicy, Mouthwatering, sparkling orange! Very citrusy, highly aromatic, this is a beautiful composition that goes nicely with carefree mood… Highly recommended if you are a smoker, as the citruses neutralizes the smell of tobacco.

History

Nerolia Bianca is Thierry Wasser’s attempt to create a perfume extracting every bit of a bitter orange tree.

Composition

Main notes: Orange blossom, Bitter orange, Orange, Leaves of petit grain, Neroli, Twigs.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro.

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA TIARE MIMOSA (2009)

tiare mimosa 

Personality

Brighter than the sun, this scent is sensual beyond limits! Mimosa, tiare and lemon blend perfectly with each other during the opening and throughout the experience, leading to a sweet, musky trail.

Highly recommended for layering during summer vacations under a musk- peppery scent and for brides to be!

History

To know more about Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line visit Perfumeshrine’s Elena Vosnaki article here.

Composition

Main notes: Mimose, Tiare flower, Amalfi lemon, Musk, Vanilla, Pink pepper.

I hope you can still find Tiare Mimose in some big cosmetics stores, small corner perfumeries and definitely around the web. Prices start from 60 Euro for 75ml.

 

GUERLAIN LA COLOGNE DU PARFUMER (2010)

cologne parfumer

Personality

It is uplifting and clean! Green, almost grassy notes mix well with polite citruses. As it is Eau de Cologne, longevity is not great. Perfect for freshening up and layering with woody perfumes. For more details watch Pelle Suringa, who is the man behind Geurenland, in this video reviewing the Cologne.

History

Thierry Wasser originally created this Cologne for himself. The creation happened in the same era as of Idylle, during his time off.

Composition

Main notes: African orange flower, Citruses, Amalfi lemon, Rosemary, Lavender, Mint.

La Cologne Du Parfumer is an Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 90Euro.

 

GUERLAIN EAU DE COLOGNE IMPERIALE (1853)

 eau de cologne imperiale Eau-de-Cologne-Imperiale-Guerlain-Parfum_high

Personality

This is sparkling, green and very yellow! Citruses here are loud and they are capable of waking you up in a sniff of a nose. Longevity is poor, however is an excellent choice to preserve the freshness after a cool shower and to layer over it citrusy, light woody fragrances. You may also use it for its original purpose: battle the headache. Simply damp the juice on a cool piece of cloth and keep it on your forehead for 10 minutes.

 History

Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, Founder of Maison Guerlain, undertook the responsibility of crafting a remedy for Empress Eugenie’s, wife of Napoleon III, severe headaches. The alluring creation ensured Pierre Francois a conspicuous place inside royal houses and the prestigious title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Citruses, Lemon verbena, Neroli, Bergamot and Lemon.

Base notes: Rosemary, Tonka bean and Cedar.

The historic perfume comes as Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 85Euro.

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR PARFUM INITIAL (2011)

shalimar parfum initial l'eau

Personality

Firstly we have to agree that Shalimar Parfum Initial range stands off from its progenitor, Shalimar. Then let’s admire the same exact materials used in both the old and new fragrances, but in a twisted row.

Shalimar Parfum Initial l’Eau is a feast of spring and is a lot less powdery and sweet than its original and Shalimar itself. The addition of grapefruit and flowers, such as lily of the valley, hyacinth and more, in the citrusy- floral-oriental composition, give a fresher and lighter result. Iris and bergamot are always present. It all ends to a warm, creamy result with the help of vanilla.

History

With Shalimar Parfum Initial range, composer Thierry Wasser aimed to reformulate for younger audiences the cornerstone of Guerlain fragrances, Shalimar. The original Shalimar is a Jacques Guerlain creation of 1925. Shalimar Parfum Initial Eau de Parfum was launched in 2011 and its l’Eau version in 2012. This year there is L’Eau Si Sensuelle version, which corresponds to L’Eau, bottled in glacé.

Composition

Top notes: Orange, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Neroli

Heart notes: Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Freesia, Hyacinth

Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka bean.

The perfume is available as Eau de Toilette in 40ml for 45 Euro, 60 ml and 100 ml.

 

GUERLAIN JICKY (1889)

jicky

Personality

The first time I experienced the original blend of Jicky I picked up a fight with my friend Maxime. I debated hard on how overestimated this scent was, strongly influenced of its rough opening, and I was wrong. The second time I applied Jicky, I was alone and I had all the time I needed, to watch it evolving deeply.

I feel it was a progressive release for its era and I imagine it was a favourite among some type of witty, multi traveled, unprejudiced ladies, who were enjoying high social statuses and even though they did not show how powerful they were, they could crush you blandly.

Every time I sniff Jicky something green and animalic hits me, until it dries down to a balmy-leathery trail. Jicky is a very complex construction, yet an alive piece of history.

History

Jicky was a revolutionary creation, being one of the first perfumes including synthetic materials. Aime Guerlain composed Jicky in 1889, inspired by his love for a girl he met, during his academic years in England. The flacon reminisces the original 19th century’s medicinal bottles and the stopper that of a champagne’s bottle.

Composition

Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Rosemary and Bergamot.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, Lavender, Orris root, Jasmine, Basil.

Base Notes: Vanilla, Opoponax, Benzoin, Brazilian rosewood, Amber, Sandalwood, Leather, Spices.

Jicky is available as Parfum in 30ml for 270Euro, as Eau de Parfum

in 50 ml for 86 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 93ml for 98 Euro.

 

GUERLAIN MAYOTTE (2006)

mayotte

Personality

Mayotte is beautiful! It has an intoxicating white floral-woody scent that gets better and better as it dries. In the beginning you get tuberose and ylang ylang with hints of vanilla and at the finale soft woods that preserve the tropical element.

I want to imagine it on bronzed skin, dressed in a strawberry red sexy dress. If you will have your vacations on an island, Mayotte is the perfect choice to create an olfactory memory album with.

History

Mayotte was named after the complex of two small French islands and islets, located over Madagascar and it belongs to the Parisiennes collection of Guerlain. In 2000, Jean Paul Guerlain created Mahora, a perfume that resembles Mayotte intensely. If you were a fan of the now discontinued Mahora, then give Mayotte a try. 

Composition

Top: Frangipani and Neroli.

Heart: Ylang-Ylang, Indian jasmine, Tuberose.

Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Vetiver.

Mayotte is available as Eau de Parfum in 125ml for 223Euro.

 

GUERLAIN LES VOYAGES OLFACTIF 01 PARIS-MOSCOW (2009)

paris-moscow

Personality

Paris-Moscow is a citrusy-flower scent with a hint of woods. Tonka bean is in the middle of a mystical ceremony having citruses and plum dancing around it. As the perfume dries down I sense vanilla, light green notes and lemon. The grand finale happens with musk and jasmine in a creamy duet.

I do not know if the scent symbolizes Moscow in any way, but I do know that it could be a reference to a warm summer in Paris.

History

Les Voyages Olfactif Collection, or else the Olfactive Journeys, is a compilation of five –up to now- fragrances/ postcards, each inspired by the rhythm of five different capitals: Moscow, New York, Tokyo, London, Shanghai.

Composition

Top notes: Absinth, Lemon, Bergamot, Red currant, Plum, Pine needles.

Heart notes: Jasmine.

Base notes: Tonka bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White musk.

The perfume is available as Eau de Parfum, in the travel and aeroplane-friendly quantity of 100ml for 178Euro.

Which is the scent of your Summer?

Disclaimer: None of the pictures in this post have taken by me.