What goes around- November ’13


Colossal luxury goods conglomerate LVMH has undertook a unique initiative that aims to expand the Group’s philanthropic synergies and bring out and support tomorrow’s pivotal fashion designers: The Young Fashion Designer prize. The competition, which is open worldwide until February 2nd 2014, addresses to students on their final year in fashion schools and to young fashion brands with 2 collections already in hand.

The prizes for the winning brand and 3 lucky students are generous and on a par to LVMH. Winners from the student category will receive a 10,000 Euro grant and one-year contract to work with a designing team of a fashion brand design that belongs to LVMH group. The big winner will receive a 300,000 Euro grant, a year-long, tailor made technical and financial support by the Group (from marketing, to production), as well as a star trophy (Christian Dior’s personal lucky symbol) created by contemporary French artist Jean –Michel Othoniel, mostly known for his works with glass.


The jury consists of 8 fashion designers and 3 head members of the LVMH Group: Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton, Karl Lagerfeld, Creative Director of Fendi, Raf Simons, Creative Director of Dior, Marc Jacobs, Creative Director of Marc Jacobs, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, Creative Directors of Kenzo, Phoebe Philo, Creative Director of Céline, Riccardo Tisci, Creative Director of Givenchy, as well as, Delphine Arnault, Executive Vice President of Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Claverie, Advisor to LVMH owner, Bernard Arnault and Pierre Yves Roussel, who is Chairman and CEO of the LVMH fashion divison.

It is essential to be noted that throughout the competition, we all can become talent hunters, only by uploading our favorite young fashion designer on Instagram. The best fashion scout will have the -once in a lifetime- chance to participate in Paris Fashion Week and vote their favourite finalist out of 10, who will be presented to the jury. Check out the first bunch of participants here.


guerlain-flagship01 guerlain-flagship02

Pics via guerlain.fr

Today is the day! The fully renovated, iconic and historical Maison Guerlain in Paris opens again its doors for the public and its loyal clientele. The building located at Champs- Elysées 68, has undergone a complete architectural change by American architect Peter Marino.

The transformation of Guerlain House, which is open since 1914, created essential space for creativity and concepts that will fascinate Guerlain’s visitors. Apart from the brand new perfume organ, the room for bespoke perfumes, the make up room, the skincare room and the renovated Spa Guerlain, new spaces have been added to enhance and complete the Guerlain experience.

c770060d09a8e0186ebc3ec70dab1a1f e0a3142d37ceedcbf622321ee566f827 e941411589825f9abd365f06782b2e7d 786f2c011ae49d776ac0fd8ddd95d8e8 83f709653b94aec5fcc913720bc2c999 Pics via instagram.com

Spaces such as “Le 68” restaurant by Michelin starred chef Guy Martin,  “Les Delices du 68” patisserie and tea shop and the “fashion corner” hosting luxurious scarfs made of silk, scented silk fans and a whole collection of leather scented gloves in Mitsouko and La Petit Robe Noire, made in collaboration with Maison Fabre.  Scented gloves is a trend brought back to life after many centuries, as it was firstly sported by Catherine de Medici’s and Elizabeth I in 16th century and disappeared in the beginning of 18th century.


7e765fdb2df857922206b14d1537f0c5 f7dd490d9149e58f32cbe744810fe7a7

Pics via guerlain.fr and instagram.com

Yesterday, November 22nd Guerlain organized a mini preview of the renovated House on Google+ with a tour inside the building and a virtual hangout with Laurent Boillot, President and General Manager of Guerlain, Natalia Vodianova, Ambassador of Guerlain, Thierry Wasser, Head Perfumer, Guy Martin, Chef of restaurant “Le 68”, Olivier Échaudemaison, Creative Director and 5 bloggers from the U.S.A., Russia, France and China.


After 16 celebrated collaborations with various fashion designers and popular singers, H&M commissioned French label Isabel Marant to create a limited edition collection, true to Marant’s style. The collection is in stores since November 14th and includes fashionable pieces that dress us from morning to night. Knits, faux leathers, metallic textures, shoes and fashion accessories all signed by Isabel Marant, tempt us to fall for them. Here is a picture from H&M Dam square in Amsterdam.

the Dam

Here are few pieces from the collection that I singled out.

isabel-53 isabel-21 isabel-15 isabel-16 isabel-34 isabel-41

Pictures of clothes via by teenvogue.com


Who would have thought that a cellar somewhere on Cheapside Street of London would have hided so many secrets! An excavation of the area back in 1912 brought to light by accident an entire collection of priceless jewels and gemstones dated from the late 16th and early 17th century and were buried there for 3 centuries after a massive fire destroyed a big part of London.

21e75e3d5a7f123c545612a81cc56223_f1897 8c66f6e2605dec167874a7b57f01331d_f1861 4ebb08f8026171f34eccf84fd0fd23c1_f1898 Pics via http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Gold hat ornament with amethysts en.paperblog.com

Pics via ‪en.paperblog.com

Grape Pendant web Pic via ‪www.professionaljeweller.com

Pendant conservation Museum of London webSigned-Gilt-Watch-374x500

Pics via http://www.ianvisits.co.uk

On the occasion of the exhibition’s opening, Museum of London asked British perfumer Roja Dove to craft a bespoke scent, reminiscing of that era. Roja Dove created a scent containing ambergris, rose and spices, ingredients that though were available only to society’s wealthiest people, they were certainly characteristic of an era, when the trading activities with the colonies were at their peak. Visitors will have the chance to experience this unique perfume by approaching and smelling a square piece of railing, behind which the perfume is placed.


Picture via Basenotes.

The exhibition is open until April 27th, 2014 at the Museum of London. Prices start from 7 to 10 British pounds. Read more about the exhibition here.


Miss Dior Event is an ode to the first perfume ever created by Christian Dior and to anything that generates the idea of Mademoiselle Dior as the designer envisioned her himself.


In this event, 15 female international artists have been given a blank cheque to translate virtually their idea of Miss Dior, drawing inspiration from the scent, the bottle, the stopper, the character and the aura around the perfume.

1 3 2 4 5 7 6 Pics via LVMH.

The event is being held inside the Galerie Courbe of Grand Palais for 2 more days. Admission is free of charge. For details look here.

Rendez-vous with history

In my family, we all are avid lovers of antiques to the point that we have incorporated important and historical pieces of furnitures, decoration and household items in our daily activities.


Among other treasures, my mother Angeliki holds a fabulous collection of authentic, vintage little things, such as make up powder compacts (with traces of powder!), lipstick holders (with traces of lip colour!), mirrors, perfume bottles, glass boxes, ink pots, personal notebooks, fans, engraved cigarette cases and many, many more.


A piece that added recently in her collection and draw my attention was a tiny, metallic box, embellished with a green jewel. It was given to her by my grandmother Ioanna and contained perfume in the form of wax. What was it? Helena Rubinstein’s “Heaven Sent” dated 1941!!!


As I have not experienced range’s eaux, I can only comment on what we have in wax: it is a pleasant, outdated scent with floral notes and a balmy leftover in taste. If you wish to know more about “Heaven Sent” and its history, visit fellow blogger Cleopatra’s  Boudoir.DSC03289


Do you like antiques and vintage perfumes?

Experiencing Magnetic Scent(s)

Magnetic Scent is a young perfume House with mature creations. The sophisticated, niche perfume brand debuted in 2012 with 4 perfumes. The perpetrator behind the idea, creation and aesthetic diligence of every fragrance is Dr. Spyros Drosopoulos, an unconventional man of diverse and alluring background.


After a perfume workshop and almost 3 years of intensive study and experimentation, Spyros renounced his “monotonic” career as Professor of Psychology Department at the University of Amsterdam, for a “polytonic” position behind perfumer’s organ, not only to express himself through unique artistic creations but also to carry on his scientific research onto the correlation between scents and human psyche.

In this post, I share with you my thoughts on the four perfumes: Indigo, Tindrer, Untitled 1 and Untitled 2 that the perfumer kindly sent me to explore.

Untitled #1

What it scents like 

Untitled #1 is a floral perfume based on Jasmine. Seconds after opening with jasmine, we have rose coming up and an aggressive tuberose note that mingle up with vanilla. After some time, aggressiveness from tuberose has gone and what is left is a sweet and creamy sense of cacao on palate. During drydown and after the pompous acting of ingredients, jasmine and vanilla mellow into a warm trail.


What it feels like

Untitled #1 is undoubtedly a summer scent and even if it is known as unisex, I would also say effeminate. In a scene where everything feels more intense and senses are in alert, this perfume would portray an outdoors, sun bathed afternoon tea with cocoa and vanilla pastries, in a huge garden full of jasmines. On a different note, my father unwittingly confirmed the rule that wants men finding the scent of jasmine extremely appealing and said that out of all four fragrances he liked Untitled #1 the most.


Perfumer’s notes

Through this fragrance Spyros wanted to create an original and unexplored version of a perfume based on sambac jasmine. He worked 2 years for it and after 300 versions, he achieved to reconstruct the desired scent from scratch. The final result is bottled under the name: Untitled 1.

Ingredients: Jasmine, Wormwood, Galanga, Cacao.

Untitled #2

What it scents like

Untitled #2 is a gourmand-spicy perfume that opens with a blast of mild cloves, cinnamon and anise dipped in sugar. After the intense blast some rose is coming up. As time passes by, we have more herbal spices showing up, that blend nicely with the rose. From then and there we have a dance for two elements going on, with rose and spices dominate once at a time. During dry down all the spices are baptized in vanilla, that gives a sensual vibe. Though the fragrance begun as a warm composition, it turned out as cool and aromatic.


What it feels like

Since the perfume is deliberately orphan from title, I will be cheeky and name it “the secrets of tea rituals”. No, I am not referring to the often dry or cool or mainstream British and Japanese teas, but to the highly aromatic and “multilayered” in taste and scent Karak tea (as I know it). Karak tea or else Masala chai, is a hot beverage originally coming from the Indian subcontinent and contains black tea, sugar and several spices such as cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, ginger, saffron and cloves, all dipped in milk and boiled over low fire for hours and hours.

Cozy yet sweetened spices in the beginning, a sense of creaminess minutes later, and a cool, concise residue, exactly as the effect of a Karak tea from the first sip until the moment that gets cold, that is what Untitled #2 is like.

I classify it as a scent for Fall and early Winter and it is my second favourite from Magnetic Scent.


Perfumer’s notes

Deviating a little from the original version of Masala Chai, Spyros attempted to recreate a wearable version of the spicy tea that he loves so much. He added rose and cacao in the composition, after an alternative recipe that stigmatized him.

Ingredients: Masala Chai, Cacao, Rose, Milk, Vanilla.


What it scents like

Tindrer is a green, earthy scent with woody and flowery notes. Upon opening I sense wet woods, sweet resins and wet soil! After a while I feel violet and musk coming in. As time passes by, violet is getting more prominent and accompanies in the same tone the fragrance until it blurs out to nothing.


What it feels like

I have met this fragrance before in my homeland’s woods; it is one of Earth’s most exclusive and characteristic scent. Oh how much have I missed the smell of rain that derives out of the randy for water soil!Tindrer is a sweet version of the events that take place on ground just a little before or a little after the rain or even watering. Violet gives a velvety dimension to it. I see this perfume as the perfect palette to play around layering it with nice resinous scents and dark leather perfumes. Initially, I feel Tindrer as a Spring and Summer scent, which however can be worn layered all year round due to its woods and earthy notes.


Perfumer’s notes

Tindrer was made infused by the homonym song by Danish band “Under Byen”. Inspired by the alternations and contradictions of the song and the artists-musicians’ anarchistic interpretation of how rock sounds like, the artist-perfumer alternates warm and cool earthy tones in a creation that depictures sparkling, cold spring mornings or Scandinavian nights.

Ingredients: Green grass, Wet oil tincture, Cedar, Oakmoss, Galbanum, Cypress, Violet, Musk, Amber, heliotrope.


What it scents like

Indigo is a highly aromatic and resinous scent. During opening I experienced a blast of mastic, rose, and a dry green flowery note, angelica. As the perfume unfolds, it feels clean, fresh and balmy. Its drydown was mellow, with its resins getting sweeter and amber leaving a mighty footprint.


What it feels like

It feels like I am uplifted! All this cool and beautiful mastic sets me in the mood for sun, endless cycling in the gardens and cool drinks. Indigo is a truly original scent and personally speaking my favourite from Magnetic Scent. For me, there is a point during drydown, where it speaks the same language as Amouage’s Epic for women. Indigo matches nicely with Spring, Summer nights and early Autumn days.


Perfumer’s notes

This was Spyros’s very first project in Magnetic Scent; a project that somehow correlates with his vocation and Ph.D. in Sleep and Memory consolidation. He worked more than a year for Indigo, wanting to deliver a specific disposition: the transition from a state of introspection or daydreaming to unification with what is happening right here, right now.

Apart from this, Indigo as a title is a connotation to the colour’s role in meditation and colour psychology, which refers to the highest level of intuition, consciousness and perception.

Packaging is illustrated by the Berlin-based artist Ekaterina Koroleva.

Ingredients: Mastic oil, Hibiscus, Rose, Hyacinth, Artemisia, Angelica root, Atlas cedar, Sandalwood, Amber, Ambrette seed.

The verdict

Magnetic Scent has clean scents made of high quality ingredients, which initially is confirmed by their clarity and longevity. The compositions are worked nicely by Spyros and they have nothing to do with mainstream creations for the mass. They are extraordinary juices that twist and unfold in a different way. Last but not least, I want to highlight that the House has ecological consciousness with all its products, from content to packaging, made by hand.

Autumn potions

Autumn is probably my favourite season. It is a sweet transition between the often unbearably hot summer weather and the usually severe cold, wintery conditions. This transition is best depictured in the Ancient Greek myth of goddess Demetra and her daughter Persephone.

According to the myth, Hades, god of Underworld and the dead, “steals” Persephone from her mother Demetra, marries her and anoints her Queen of the Underworld. Then, Hades proceeds to an agreement with Demetra, according to which Persephone will spend 6 months of a year in her mother’s arms on Earth and 6 months by her husband’s side in Underworld eternally.

Joseph-The-Elder-Heintz-The-Rape-of-Proserpina.es.wahooart.com via es.wahooart.com

The rape of Persephone. Joseph Heintz. 1595. Gemaeldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Germany.

Breaking down the myth, Demetra and Persephone symbolize vegetation, crops and Hades death, absence. The myth basically narrates the end of cultivation and growing season for 6 months, during which Persephone has descended to the Underworld. This is Autumn’s starting point!

As we are getting ready for the opulent warmth of furs, spicier meals, fireplaces, excessive consumption of chocolate and other sources of warmth and coziness, the scents of neroli, tuberose and sparkling citruses, feel more and more irrelevant.

Today, I present you some carefully selected scents that would dress perfectly your days and nights for the following months.




Have you ever drunk Karak tea or Masala chai? Do you remember the sugared- creamy spices that instantly carried you away? This is what happens in Untitled 2 case too… Warm and spicy in a moment, sweet and mellow in another; I cannot think of any better scent to accompany the first rainy afternoons with.


Spyros Drosopoulos, the captain behind Magnetic Scents’ wheel, loved masala chai that much, that decided to create a wearable recipe! The perfume belongs to the “Untitled” collection of the brand, leaving its aura to imply more than a name would.


Masala Chai, Cacao, Rose, Milk, Vanilla.

Untitled 2 comes as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for 110Euro.




If Rousse was a sweet, it would be an apple pie. If it was a material, it would be brick from clay and if it was a colour, it would be copper. Rousse smells sweet spices and specifically sweet cinnamon and cloves. It is intense yet refreshing and I liked mostly wearing its after numerous cold morning showers. Downside is its average longevity.


Rousse is a Christopher Sheldrake creation. I had bought Rousse a year after its launch in a 50ml regular Serge Lutens bottle. Overtime, Rousse did not have the expected feedback and centrals decided to withdraw its version from market and pour it in Bell Jar bottles from Luten’s Palais Royal Exclusive line, ever since.


Cinnamon, cloves, resin, amber, cedar, mandarin.

Rousse is available as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 140 Euro.


miroir des voluptes


Miroir des Voluptes is a perfume with double identity, as if you deal with a person you knew for quite a while but having not seen that other side of him. Behind the big picture, there is a small surprise hiding. Miroir de Voluptes has a complex yet mainstream scent with an impressive alteration in it that changes everything: a sparkling oud. In my opinion, it could be crafted in a better way and with less synthetic ingredients. However, I included it in my list because of the choice of notes, the less -than other perfumes of its league- vulgar oud and its strong trail. Among the awful trend of “plastic” oud perfumes that have filled up perfumery, I find Miroir des Voluptes a decent oud perfume despite all its flaws.


Miroir des Voluptes is the 6th entry in Mugler’s exclusive Mirror Mirror Collection and was created by Nathalie Lorson and Daphne Bugey.

This Mugler fragrance is almost exclusive to the Middle Eastern- Gulf market. It can be found in almost all Gulf beauty shops and airports. For international buyers, try out Thierry Mugler’s online boutique.


Top notes: Bulgarian Rose, African orange flower.

Middle Notes: Oud, Tobacco.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood.

Miroir des Voluptes is available as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for Dhs550 or $150 in Mugler’s online store.




Gaultier² is a smart composition with a very sexy scent. Though belonging to the mass production and its ingredients are more or less over worn, Gaultier² is nicely done and constructed in a way like being almost exclusive. Deep amber and bitter vanilla courtship endlessly in this long lasting, sensual fragrance.


Created by Francis Kurkdjian, Gaultier² is a unisex-marketed perfume that truly appeals to all.


Vanilla, Amber, Musk

Gaultier² is available as Eau de Parfum in 40ml and 120ml. The range involves shower gel and body lotion as well.




Terre is undoubtedly a men’s perfume with personality and both its legs on the ground. It is very earthy, fresh, lightweight scent that matches all occasions; from office to first dates. It has a sweet-spicy vetiver hint that reminds me a better Tom Ford’s “Grey Vetiver” version. What I mostly sniff from this beauty is: orange, vetiver and cedar. For a detailed review, check this video by fellow blogger and perfume specialist Pelle Suringa, aka Geurenland heer.


Jean-Claude Ellena, who has been the exclusive In-house perfumer for Hermès since 2004, crafted Terre in 2006.


Top notes: Grapefruit, Orange.

Middle Notes: Pepper, Pelargonium.

Heart Notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedar, Benzoin.

Terre is available as Parfum in 80ml for $120 and 200ml for $215, and as Eau de Toilette in 50ml for $79, in 100ml for $110 and 200ml for $178. The complete range involves shampoo, shaving Foam, after-shave balsam, after-shave lotion and deodorant stick.


Embers RBR


I sniff a success story here! Embers will be popular for its richness and how well it “cooked”. All the notes compliment each other perfectly and leave one want more… Initially you get spices shock with cloves and nutmeg that transforms into a balsamic and soothing trail. Personally, my favourite out of all Rouge Bunny Rouge creations.


Embers belongs to the second line of unisex perfumes launched by Rouge Bunny Rouge, called “Provenance Tales”, including also perfumes Cynefin and Silvan. The “nose” behind he entire collection is Alexandra De Montfort, creator of the brand. “Provenance Tales” debuts in October 2013.


Top notes: Cloves, Nutmeg, Pink Pepper.

Middle Notes: Labdanum, Jasmine, Freesia, Incense.

Heart Notes: Styrax, Peru balsam, Woody notes.

Embers comes as Eau de Parfum in 50ml for 97Euro.


Egoiste Chanel


Simply irresistible, it is a scent that separates men from the boys! Égoïste is a timeless perfume that enchants nevertheless. It is a character full of various light woods, showered in tobacco and spices throughout its longevity. It would be perfect for rainy evenings in all occasions.


Égoïste was created on 1990 by Jacques Polge, head perfumer at Chanel since 1978.


Top notes: Coriander, Brazilian rosewood, Mahogany, Sicilian mandarin.

Middle Notes: Damask rose, Cinnamon, Carnation.

Heart Notes: Amber, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Leather.

Égoïste comes as Eau de Toilette in 100ml for $84.


Hypnotic poison CD


Confession: Hypnotic Poison was my very first fragrance in full bottle ever since it was launched (yes I was too young) and my signature scent for years! It didn’t happen to me not to get a compliment about it every time I was wearing it and I have classified it as men’s “trap”. It has fruity opening and a prominent creamy plummy note -classifying it as Fall scent- that plays around with vanilla and sandalwood and gives a long lasting and very seductive result. Highly recommended for sensual situations…


This mythical creation, by Annick Menardo in 1998 was the 3rd addition to Dior’s “Poison” collection. Hypnotic Poison turned out though to be the most successful “Poison” of all.


Top notes: Plum, Coconut, Apricot.

Middle Notes: Brazilian rosewood, jasmine, caraway, tuberose, rose, lily-of the valley.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk, Almond.

Hypnotic Poison comes as Extrait in 7,5 ml  for 107 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 47Euro, in 50ml for 66Euro and in100ml for 94Euro and in a couple of Eau versions. The range also includes shower gel and moisturizing lotion and deodorant spray.


Prada Amber women


Amber for women is a perfume true to its name: filled with amber. A sweet, balsamic amber that is perfect for Fall. The scent is light and wearable throughout the day. It opens boldly with green, bergamot and amber but gets smoother soon after, when musk and vanilla get more prominent.  As with all Prada perfumes  Amber is also not very long lasting.


Amber is Prada’s first attempt to penetrate into international boudoirs. Up to that point Prada had launched only three perfumes exclusively though its boutiques. Amber was launched in 2004 and was created by Carlos Benaim, Max Gavarry and Clement Gavarry.


Top notes: Green notes, Tarragon, Fruity notes, Bergamot.

Middle Notes: Rose, Ylang-ylang, Carnation, Honey, Jasmine.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla.

Prada Amber comes as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 48,50 Euro, 50ml for 78,50 Euro and 80ml for 102,50 Euro. There also are bath gel, body lotion and soaps.


Prada men


Such an original and enchanting scent! Absolutely a head turning perfume, which fits nicely the cool and warm days of Autumn. Amber for men is aromatic with a hint of spice from saffron and a beautiful balsamic-soapy trail mostly due to the musk-vanilla-leather-myrrh mix. Tonka bean and vetiver play also their part in the creation, but from backstage. Amber as a name is misleading as there is none in the ingredients.


Launched in 2006, there is an oxymoron fact about Amber pour Homme: it was created by two women! Successful perfumer Daniela Roche Andrier and Prada’s CEO Miuccia Prada, played around accords, they decided what they wanted to smell like if they were men and they crafted Amber, as Miuccia confessed.


Top notes: Neroli, Mandarin, Bergamot, Cardamom.

Middle Notes: Myrrh, Geranium, Vetiver, Musk, Orange blossom.

Heart Notes: Saffron, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Patchouli, Labdanum, Leather, Tonka bean.

Prada Amber comes as Eau de Toilette in 50ml for 60,50 Euro and 100ml for 81,90 Euro. There are also available travel sized flacons in a special packaging of 3 in 10ml each. The range also includes shower gel and after-shave balm.




I decided to include Boss Bottled in this list of perfumes because it is the rare case of a mass production perfume that succeeded to impress me with its aroma. It is very refreshing and smells mostly of vanilla and woods. It is super easy to wear all day long, though its longevity is weak and suits pretty much all ages.


Boss Bottled is another beautiful creation by Annick Menardo, also launched in 1998.


Top notes: Plum, Geranium, Lemon, Bergamot, Apple, Oakmoss.

Middle Notes: Cinnamon, Carnation, Mahogany.

Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Cedar, Vanilla, Vetiver, Olive tree.

Boss Bottled is available as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 35 Euro, 50ml for 47 Euro, 100ml for 62 Euro and 200ml for 71 Euro and in two more versions: Night and Sport. The range includes after-shave lotion in two sizes, after-shave balm, shower gel, deodorant stick and deodorant spray.




There is nothing feminine about Duro. Duro is a man whose aura tames before his presence. It deserved to be worn by men with confidence and “fist”. The fragrance has great longevity and is full of woods, mostly agarwood that stands out, even if not mentioned in the ingredients’ list.


Duro is a fragrance made by Alessandro Gualtieri, the maestro behind all Nasomatto fragrances.


Leather, Spices, Woody notes.

Duro comes as Extrait de Parfum in 30 ml for 108 Euro or in a 4 ml roller bottle for 38 Euro.


Arabian wood


I had underestimated Arabian Wood for years, until I tested it again few weeks ago, seeking for Autumn-y scents. This is such a chameleonic scent! It twists and alters its own skin several times throughout wearing it. I included it in Autumn potions because its nature is similar to the seasonal transitions, so you could wear it in a day that experiences both sun and rain.

Do not let the preconception dictating that all Arabic perfumes must contain oud or heavy woods to fool you. I have came across Arabic juices fresher than spring! Having said that Arabian Wood fills in the category with its light woody-mossy notes, which transform into powdery-flowery during the chameleonic hours. Longevity-wise is not perfect, as it fades after few hours, however the hour that stays on, definitely performs in its grandiosity.


Arabian Wood belongs to the Private Blend Collection and was launched as part of the second batch of perfumes for the collection in 2008 regionally, in the Middle East and internationally a year later.


Woody notes, Bulgarian Rose, May Rose, Jasmine, Freesia, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Bergamot, Orris, Orange blossom, Cedar, Oakmoss, Honey, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, Tonka Bean, Lavender, Galbanum.

Arabian Wood comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 166 Euro and in 250ml for 400 Euro.


Misqaal Tola


Aromatic, woody and spicy, Misqaal is such a rich scent with many layers and high quality ingredients, that not only will not disappoint but is highly intriguing.


Misqaal is a measurement system of weight that was used to measure gold and expensive goods such as spices, back in the days in the regions of Gulf and India. Misqaal is a fragrance made by Dhaher Bin Dhaher and comes from Dubai, UAE. Tola is a new and promising brand in Perfumery, focusing on good marketing tools and premium quality ingredients.


Top notes: Mandarine, Grapefruit, Plum, Pineapple, Raspberry, Pink pepper, Lemon, Bergamot, Nutmeg, Anise, Coriander, Fir, Honey.

Middle Notes: French orange flower, Heliotrope, Geranium, Orris, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Juniper, Wormwood, Orchid.

Base Notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Patchouli, Labdanum, Leather, Tonka bean, Cypriol oil, Agarwood, Incense, Siam Benzoin, Castoreum, White musk, Ambergis.

Misqaal comes as Extrait de Parfum and Eau de Parfum in 45 ml for 235 Euro.




This is a head turning scent that has accompanied me in many fun nights last year! I was always asked what was it, when I was wearing it, and was always receiving exclamation points when I was saying: it is downtown Arabic! During the opening, almonds and flowers take over, while its trail is similar to cream chocolate and rum. Balmy, lightly woody and powdery, this perfume is at least ethereal…


Waqat means time in Arabic. Waqat was created by Mohammed Hilal, the mastermind behind my favourite Arabic perfumes brand: Hind Al Oud.


Top notes: Cyclamen, Almond blossom.

Main notes: Jasmine, Peony.

Base notes: Ambergis, Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood.

Waqat comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for Dhs 550 or else 110 Euro.




The first time I sniffed Dia for men I thought “Oh my! Whoever wears this, turns automatically a level of dangerousness up before I even see him…” and I crowned it as one of my favourite men’s scents of all time! Dia man smells basically like dry and spicy woods that get deeper, hour after hour and to me is a much simpler composition than the rest of Amouages. In addition to that, Dia man soaps make a spectacular gift for hosts and hostesses.


Dia for men is a Bertrand Duchaufour’s creation for Amouage, launched in 2002.


Top notes: Incense, Cardamom, Landanum, Bitter orange.

Main notes: Orris root, Plum, Ylang-ylang, Peony.

Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Leather.

Dia for men comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 175 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.




Such a beloved perfume! Jubilation could be “Dia’s” first cousin, who is coming from Indian Ocean’s side of the Middle East, while Dia is from the Versailles. They both have the same floral lightness but Jubilation is way deeper, having all the three: incense, myrrh and amber working hard throughout its longevity and making it balsamic and autumn-y. I suggest you layering it with its fabulous bath products that add extra balsamic notes.


Celebrating Amouage’s 25 years of creations, Jubilation 25 for women was created by Lucas Sieuzac and was launched in 2007 along with its male counterpart, not only to commemorate its Home’s birthday but also to stigmatize the beginning of a successful route with Christopher Chong at the wheel, as Creative Director.


Top notes: Lemon, Tarragon, Rose, Ylang-ylang.

Main notes: Rose, Labdanum, Artemisia, Incense.

Base notes: Myrrh, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Musk.

Jubilation 25 for women comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 205 Euro and in 100ml for 240 Euro. 




This is how luxury smells like! Fate for woman is bold but not aggressive at all. I can smell most of the ingredients in just one application and to me is a genderless perfume. It has a “Jicky” effect on me, or else an effect like a chewing gum with sparkling spice in it, yet sweet taste. Fate woman is full of transitions. For me, labdanum, peppers, vanilla and benzoin backed up with few florals stand out in Fate. Smells very original and unique, out of what exists in the market.


Dorothee Piot is the “Nose” behind Fate woman that was launched this year.


Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon, Red chili pepper, Pepper.

Main notes: Rose, Labdanum, Narcissus, Jasmine, Incense.

Base notes: Benzoin, Patchouli, Vanilla, Castoreum, Incense, Leather, Oakmoss.

Fate woman comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 240 Euro and in 100ml for 290 Euro.


tribute oil


If anyone knows a scent identical to Tribute, in eau de parfum spray form and is willing to share the knowledge, I would highly appreciate it…  It is a dark perfume with prominent smokey, leathery and lightly woody notes but neither heavy not flooding; definitely, one of Amouage’s best perfumes. Long lasting, sensual and warm, Tribute is from its opening to its end an interesting perfume to let it stand out alone or layer it under vanilla-ish and rose scents for a sweet effect or under incenses for bolder situations.


Tribute belongs to Amouage’s Attar collection. Fellow blogger Kafkaesque explains in depth, what Attar is to perfumery in here.


Top notes: Spices, Taifi Rose, Saffron.

Main notes: Rose, French Labdanum, Amber, Jasmine, Incense.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Juniper, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather, Tobacco.

Tribute comes as oil in 12ml and 30ml, starting from 270 Euro in European markets and from 192 Euro in Omani markets.


l'instant magic guerlain


If I had to pick one, and I say one perfume only, from Guerlain that represents Autumn, this would be L’Instant Magique. The almonds, vanilla and musk, create such a cashmere like, powdery and warming up sense that makes it perfect for every occasion and every mood throughout Fall. I recommend trying it with the whole body range to prolong the somehow poor longevity.


L’instant Magic was created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Randa Hammami.


Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Anise.

Main notes: Rose, Freesia, Carnation, Mimose, Violet.

Base notes: White musk, Almond, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Iris, Cedar.

L’Instant Magic comes as Extrait de Parfum in 7.5ml for 112 Euro and as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 60 Euro, in 50ml for 85 Euro and 80ml for 104 Euro. The range includes bath gel, body lotion and body cream.


Shalimar Guerlain


Who hasn’t had a dose or hasn’t heard of Shalimar? And even if you haven’t, get ready to be bombardized by Guerlain’s new marketing campaign the following months. Though Shalimar is a 92 years old perfume, it is timeless and for all ages.  Bergamot, Vanilla, powdery notes, all star in this legendary creation, which is perfect for those late afternoons in a friend’s house for cocooning or in your favourite café drinking hot chocolate and watching the rain falling….


Shalimar was created in 1921 by Jacques Guerlain, inspired by the legendary Shah Jahan of the Mughal Empire, who built Taj Mahal mausoleum to honour the memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal.

Despite having received an award in France, Shalimar became a success story not later than 1925, when Madame Raymond Guerlain (Raymond had designed the fan-like Shalimar bottle) wore it during a transatlantic trip to New York and allured everyone! In a blink of an eye, the rumour of Shalimar was spread from mouth to mouth and from the boat to New York City. As a result everybody wanted a bottle of Shalimar. To know more on this legendary creation read House’s connoisseur and fellow blogger Monsieur Guerlain here.


Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Citruses, Cedarwood, Mandarin.

Main notes: Rose, Vetiver, Jasmine, Patchouli, Iris.

Base notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Incense, Vanilla, Opoponax, Musk, Civet.

Shalimar comes as Extrait in 7.5ml for 112 Euro, in 15ml for 166 Euro and in 30ml for 270 Euro. It also comes as Eau de Parfum in 30ml for 60 Euro, in 50ml for 85 Euro and 90ml for 114 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 30ml for 52 Euro, in 50ml for 72 Euro and 90ml for 98 Euro. The range includes bath gel, body lotion, body cream, soap, deodorant and powder.


Iris Ganache


My well-educated readers will already know that Iris Ganache is a discontinued perfume since last year. You will then ask me “Why did you include it?” I did so because, for me, Iris Ganache along with L’Instant Magic are the epitome of Autumn. Iris exhales warmth, as powdery iris and sweet chocolate take over throughout longevity. I consider it worth trying and worth looking for it in online perfume shops and small corner stores that might still carry few last pieces.


Iris Ganache was a Thierry Wasser creation, launched in 2007 and was the 5th addition to the exclusive collection: L’Art et La Matière.


Top notes: Cinnamon, Bergamot, White Chocolate.

Main notes: Iris, Patchouli, Cedar wood.

Base notes: White musk, Vanilla, Amber.

Iris Ganache came as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.


cuir beluga


Cuir Beluga is an irresistible amber and vanilla composition that is perfect for Autumn! Its dry-down smells something like flowers and creamy leather, very smooth and powdery too, as every Guerlain perfume that respects its origins. Here you will find an insightful review for Cuir Beluga by fellow blogger Olfactoria.


Cuir Beluga is an Olivier Polge creation and was launched in 2005, along with Rose Barbare and Angélique Noire. Coinciding the opening of the renovated at that time “La Maison Guerlain” boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysée, Guerlain launched these three perfumes in collaboration with three celebrated perfumers, as part of the L’Art et La Matière range.


Top notes: Tangerine, Aldehydes.

Main notes: Patchouli, Immortelle.

Base notes: Vanilla, Amber, Suede, Heliotrope.

Cuir Beluga comes as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.




Even if some would classify it as a scent for Spring, I will keep it in this list for its delicious and cozy myrrh. Myrrh is the indisputable protagonist in this perfume, with frankincense, licorice and faint florals completing the mise-en scène. Myrrhe & Délires is an unisex and kind of “joker” scent that can be worn from day to night, in every occasion and can support numerous combinations when layered.


Myrrhe & Délires is a Thierry Wasser creation and was launched in 2012. It is the 8th and most recent release for L’Art et La Matière range.


Top notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit.

Main notes: Violet Leaf, Rose, Jasmine, Osmanthus.

Base notes: Patchouli, Incense, Tonka Bean, Myrrh, Vanilla, Licorice.

Myrrhe & Délires comes as Eau de Parfum in 75ml for 180 Euro.

Disclaimer: All the pictures of perfumes are extracted by the Perfume Houses’ websites.

Mission to Oman’s treasure: Amouage


1st of August found me in the most exotic, beautiful and less advertised country of the Arabian Gulf, Oman. Despite the little time I had in my possession to explore Arabia’s, Africa’s and India’s crossroad, Muscat, I made sure to include first in my scheduale –for my nose and your eyes only- a name synonymous to Oman: the headquarters of the House of Amouage.


Amouage in Arabic means waves. Amouage in Perfumery means the waves of emotions. Ever since 1983, when the Perfume House was founded by His Highness Sayed Hamad bin Hamood Al Busaidi, a senior member of the Omani Royal family and established by Oman’s Sultan Qaboos bin Said, Amouage is inspiring and crafting exceptional fragrances in regal quality.

3 4

At the moment Amouage operates three major global offices, in Kuala Lumpur- Malaysia, Muscat- Oman and London- United Kingdom and three sales offices in Dubai –UAE, Riyadh- Saudi Arabia and Doha- Qatar. Behind the wheel we find Mr. David Crickmore as CEO and Mr. Cristopher Chong as Creative Director for the company.


The Initial Tour

At first, an Omani Mademoiselle named Ameerah toured me around the raw ingredients organ and got me to know all about Amouage’s fleet.


Raw materials

Sourcing materials for Amouage is an exclusively French job. French buyers have undertaken the responsibility of tracking and buying raw materials for the House, which uses more than 120 natural ingredients.

78 9

Frankincense is one of the most commonly used materials in Amouage’s fragrances. Our French friends buy the resin from Salalah, which has a rich incense trading history since 13th century. There is the house of the most rare and purest species of all kinds of olibanium. Frankincense is not only a common ingredient to use in perfumes, but also to burn in bukhoor for houses and several religious activities.

10 11

Myrrh and Roses are also widely used in Amouage perfumes and they are being sourced from Oman’s Jebel Akhdar area. More specifically, the essence of the rare, Omani rock rose – a flower found across Jebel Akhdar’s mountain range- is used in “Gold”.

12 13

The bottles

Omani as it is, Amouage wanted to provide a tangible memory along with its Arabic “flavour”. The bottles and caps reminisce familiar Omani symbols: men fragrances the shape of Khanjar, the traditional Omani dagger and women fragrances the dome and shape of Ruwi mosque, in Muscat.


Timeline of existing perfumes


Amouage’s first launch came in 1983 and was “Gold”, an ultra sexy, very long lasting and timeless scent for women, by well-known perfumer Guy Robert. That very first juice was hosted in pure French crystal bottle, which was dressed in 24-carat gold plated decorations.


1995: Amouage launched “Ubar” commemorating the lost city of Ubar, near Salalah, in Oman.

1998: Gold’s male pair was created 15 years after, by Guy himself with only two extra notes: oakmoss and patchouli.



2002: -the floral, aldehydic and matching with Gold, “Dia” (female and male versions).

– “Silver” for men.

2003: the cool, fresh and full of gardenia “Ciel” (female and male versions).


-The sharp, green or powdery (men’s), light floral “Reflection” (female and male versions).

-“Jubilation 25” for women and “Jubilation XXV” for men. This is the turning point in Amouage’s creations as it is the mark of the beginning of storylines for future launches and Christopher Chong’s undertaking of duties as Creative Director. Jubilation was created in honour of Amouage’s 25 years of existence.

2008: “Lyric” (female and male versions). Lyric is full of roses in both versions and “tells” the story of lyric music. Lyric is also a direct implication to Mr. Chong’s past as a Baritone.

2009: “Epic” (female and male versions).  Epic is such a theatrical and unique scent! Epic creations celebrate the legendary trade routes of Silk Road, from China to Arabia.


2010: my favourite “Memoir” (female and male versions).  . The perfumes celebrate the black swan story and the endless dramatic narratives of woman and man chronicles.


2011: “Honour” was created to honour the tragic story of Madame Butterfly. (female and male versions).


-“Beloved” for women, my second favourite from this line of Amouage.

-“Interlude” (female and male versions), came giving a symbolic meaning to humanity. Interlude is another indirect reference to Mr. Chong’s Lyric past and a direct reference to what the world’s needs: a break from all this destruction and misery.


-“Fate” (amazing female and male versions).  Fate is the swan song of Amouage’s storylines and the call to take our lives in our hands and strive for the best with whatever means we have.

-Beloved for men.

The Library Collection

In 2010, Amouage introduced us the “Library Collection”. It is a line with a sense of exclusivity and I dare to say, deeper, challenging and more complex scents, for demanding noses. The library collection is Mr. Chong’s personal bet and has hosted different Perfumers for each creation. Opus I to IV, were launched all in 2010. Since then Amouage releases one Opus per year. 17

50% of Opus IV global sales go to the National HIV/AIDS Prevention and Control Program (NAP) in Oman, an initiative supported by the Ministry of Health, World Health Organisation, United Nations Children’s Fund and United Nations Population Fund.

Opus III and Opus IV drive me nuts! Opus III has a light flowery scent and it strongly reminds me of Guerlain’s Insolence, when the middle notes are in charge. On the other hand, Opus IV has a magical, authentic olibanium scent. I appreciate Opus II and Opus VI as well. The first evolves into a crispy, yet spicy beautiful aroma and the second, smells mostly of oud.

The Factory

Menjie, Sales Associate and Amouage connoisseur for more than 10 years toured me around the manufacturing area and the gift shop.


On the left you can see the Initial Perfume Organ, that was used during the first years of Amouage.


Enfleurage. This is an initial, traditional process, during which flowers and plants are placed on odourless vegetable fat (3 tones each time) in room temperature, to capture the fragrant compounds. Absolute is a product of enfleurage.


Distillation process involves strictly petals and water.

21 22

Chilling machine contains 22% of concentrate.

In 1983, Amouage had only 6 tanks in possession to make only its 4 different kinds of perfumes. It is significant that all filling was done manually.

Today, the perfumes are created in Grasse, France and spend the last process of manufacture (the maceration) and bottling in Amouage’s factory in Oman. Maceration lasts from 6 to 8 weeks.


Amouage produces maximum 2500-3000 bottles daily. Depending on the demand, the production can reach 5000-10000 bottles daily.

23 24 25

Absolutes and perfumes are being bottled and packaged in Oman, while creams, soaps and lotions in France.

The gift shop

26 27 28 29 30 3136 37 38

Leather goods

Impressively, Amouage sells outstanding leather goods as well. Leather is Italian cow skin and the goods are made in Italy. In particular, Amouage’s leather goods are made in the same factory that produces the Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo products.

32 33 34 35

My Shopping

Shopping in Amouage factory was an undoubtedly pleasant experience, thinking of all the variety, benefit of playing around endlessly, Menjie’s helpful assistance and a complimentary 10% discount one has at the end of the day! Keep at the back of your mind though that Amouage’s corner shop at Omani Airport offers an even greater discount. My shopping costed originally 73 Omani Riyals. After discount I paid 65 O.R. and I received plenty of Amouage perfumes samples, which I will review soon.

39 40

I bought the “Dia” super luxurious, perfumed cream in jar for my mum, which she adores using since 2009. It smells exactly like Dia for women and it has great longevity. It also compliments perfectly her beloved perfume, Coco Chanel. Original price was 38 O.R.

42 43

For myself, I got the Memoir perfume in solid wax. I wear it for over a month now and I am totally happy with its scent, even though its sillage and longevity are pretty weak. I use it to refresh throughout the day- something like a scent booster! Original price was 35 O.R.


The factory is located in Muscat’s Al Seeb area, near to the airport. Below you can have a look at the map and driving instructions, provided to me by the company.

Amouage location map

44 Amouage corner shop in Oman airport.

Amouage’s corner shop at Oman’s Al Seeb airport

Wrapping up my experience I can only confirm of what I saw and sniffed:

Amouage IS the gift of kings!

Dry Oils: Summer Edition

What is the most ideal season to wear dry oils, other than Summer? Typically, they nourish the skin deeply, leaving it discreetly scented and glowy. They also serve as a great base to preserve the scent of your perfumes throughout the day.

This post looks upon few dry oils that caught my eye and tested thoroughly.

 Guerlain- Terracotta Eau Sous Le Vent

One word: intoxicating! Its sunny, tiare flower scent stigmatizes a specific part of my vacations for a couple of summers now: every refreshing, late afternoon shower I have after I returned from my sea and sun baths!


The Eau Sous Le Vent oil contains the Guerlain patented “Tan Booster complex” that compliments and prolongs my tans and is hydrating enough to quench my dehydrated skin after sun exposure. Guerlain promotes it as a body and face moisturizing and tan enhancing mist.


I usually buy this oil from Duty Frees, where it comes in companion with the Huile du Voyageur, which I write about in this post too. The two together come in a 30 ml each, special packaging and cost Dhs 240 in Dubai Airports, approximately 48 Euro. Here you can find the 100ml for 42.50 Euro.

NUXE-Huile Prodigieuse

To Nuxe and all the perfume and sunscreen manufacturers out there: Could you make me a sunscreen having Prodigieuse’s scent? Thank you!


After Estee Lauder’s “Bronze Goddess” tropical scent, this is my second favourite olfactive drug for nourishing my skin during summer. It has nuances of neroli, coconut milk, tiare flower and musk and while it lasts on skin, its scent relaxes me, travels me and brings me joy.

Nuxe promotes it as a product for body, face and hair. Personally, I do not rely much on its moisturizing properties, as after extensive and exclusive usage on my body, I noticed my skin getting drier. I purchased the regular 50ml flacon for Dhs80 (about 17 Euro) from Boots pharmacy in the UAE. There is also the 100ml flacon for 29 Euro, which comes in spray.

On a different note, Nuxe launched the beloved Prodigieuse fragrance in Eau de Parfum! The top notes contain bergamot, mandarine and orange flower petals. In the heart we have rose, gardenia and magnolia and in the base vanilla, coconut milk.

Roger & Gallet- Les Huiles 

Roger and Gallet is a French Perfumery that crafts exceptional perfumes and body products since 1862. Their scents are delicate, subtle and fresh. The brand makes 3 perfumed dry oils:  Huile Sublime Bois d’ orange, Eau Sublime Or Bois d’orange and Huile Embellissante Fleur d’osmanthus. The brand promote them as oils for body, face and hair.


Out of the selection of three, I got the Fleur d’osmanthus one that simply enchanted me! It has a prominent hesperidin- floral- balmy scent and when is paired with the cream or lotion out of the homonym range, the result is just… beautiful. The olfactive dry down of cream and oil together reminded me that of Chanel’s No 19.

Alternatively, I would pair Huile Embellissante Fleur d’osmanthus with the Jean-Marie Farina cream or lotion, to give a tiny deeper and balmier dimension to the olfactive result.

Lastly, I want to vote thumbs down on Eau Sublime Or bois d’Orange that I thought it would match nicely a deep tan, as the product contains golden glitter in it. Sublime Or had a pleasant, orangey, mainstream scent and left my skin with slattern golden glitters, which –on the bright side- can be easily wiped off.

Huile Sublime Bois D’Orange comes in 30 ml for 11 Euro and 100 ml for 22.90 Euro. Sublime Or comes in 100 ml and costs 37.50 ml. and Huile Embellissante Fleur d’Osmanthus comes in 100ml for 22.90Euro. In Greece, you can find the range in Hondos Center Kolwnaki and Glyfada and several pharmacies located all over the country.


Guerlain- Terracotta Huile Du Voyageur 

This is the perfect accessory for a fancy night out, a wedding, or any special occasion when you want to make a statement with your appearance. Why? Because it has that prominent, sexy tiare flower scent and because when applied strategically, it gives you enough sparkle to glow.


Terracotta Huile Du Voyageur is a thick, bronzy-coppery consistency with tiny shimmer particles and it aims to compliment your annual, long coveted tan or to give a slight hint of colour and glow on your hands and legs right in the transition periods of spring (preparing you psychologically for summer) and autumn (prolonging the fading tint of your body). Guerlain describes it as an illuminating tan intensifier for body.


It has an SPF of 8 and as almost all the Terracotta products do, it contains the exclusive to Guerlain “Tan Booster” technology that helps the skin maintains its tan. Longevity-wise the effects of the oil stay on my skin for 4-6 hours, depending on how humid the weather is.


As I mentioned before I buy it in special Duty Free packages along with the Eau Sous Le Vent oil (check above). You can find it a full version here as 100ml for 45 Euro.

NUXE- Huile Prodigieuse Or


This is the bronzed up-shimmering version of the regular dry oil. It has the same merveilleux scent, with the same staying power, though it is coloured. Its colour is a burnt orange and it contains micro golden glitter. When rubbed, it leaves your skin glowy, with few visible glitter particles on it but not a hint of colour. In other words, you should not expect to give you any colour, but more of a scented sheen to embellish your skin for few hours.


I purchased the 50 ml bottle for 23 Euro, from a Greek pharmacy. The product comes also in a 100ml bottle spray and costs 36,70 Euro.

 The Body Shop- Honey Bronze Shimmering Dry Oil

This is a new, summer launch by The Body Shop, for which I had high hopes. I tried the product in store, willing to buy it but making up my mind soon after the trial.

10thebodyshop.co.uk 11.thebodyshop.com

pictures taken from thebodyshop.com

It has an overpowering white flower scent, which stays on for few hours. In the beginning the product felt super oily on my skin and was hard to absorb. The oil comes in two colours, however both were transparent upon application. The glitter was very fine and it stayed on the skin for some time after the oil was absorbed.


The product overall felt “too much”: heavy in texture and fragrance. It left me with a feeling of an uncomfortable, sticky layer on my skin, rather than pampered.

Honey Bronze Shimmering Dry Oil comes in 01 Honey Kiss and 02 Golden Honey, as 100 ml, for 26 Euro.

Do you like using dry oils?


Summer potions

You know it is Summer, when the notes of intoxicating resins, heavy woods and dark flowers in your perfumes feel just unbearable.

Today, I am sharing with you beloved scents (some of which are part of my personal collection and some are waiting patiently their turn) that I consider perfect fit for the hot, sunny days and the cool, promising summer nights in a light breeze.

Remember that you can always stick to the Eau de Toilettes, Eau de Colognes and Eau Fraiches of your original fragrances, experimenting also with the bath products of their ranges to preserve the scent or replace your perfume.

CHANEL NO19 (1970)

 chanel 19


I experience no19 it as a refreshing, yet deep green scent, fantastically orchestrated with floral, woody and citrusy notes.

It opens with a blast of green, fresh notes that soon after play around with the iris, oakmoss and vetiver.  It dries down to an absolutely soothing, woody- powdery imprint.


19 itself refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel; August 19th. The perfume launched in 1970, a year before the Grande Dame died. No19 is a perfume created by Henri Robert, the Chanel’s in-house perfumer of that time.


Top notes: Neroli, Green notes and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Rose, Iris, Narcissus and Lily of the valley.

Base notes: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Oakmoss and Leather.

Chanel No19 comes in Parfum, EDP, EDT and has bath products embellishing the range. Eau de parfum of 50 ml costs 78 Euro.




Tindrer embodies intense shocks of freshness sniff after sniff. If it was a natural phenomenon, it would be cloudburst. If it was an element, it would be wood dipped in wet soil. If it was colour, it would be green. It opens with an uplifting green scent of wet woods and violet.

Christos Karageorgos has written a very precise review on this masterpiece, here.


Tindrer means sparkle in Danish. Spyros Drosopoulos tempted to bottle the feeling of a cold spring morning in countryside, right after the rain. Magnetic Scent is a niche perfume house, producing beautifully unorthodox perfumes.


Cut Grass, Wet Soil, Cedar, Cypress, Galbanum,

Oakmoss, Violet, Heliotrope, Amber, Musk.

Tindrer comes as Eau de parfum in 50 ml and costs 110 Euro.




SUN is full of contradictions. Although an Eau de Toilette, it is one of the few perfumes of its kind that has a long lasting effect and pretty strong sillage. Although marketed as summer scent, it has a protrusive benzoin note that makes it a dark yet sultry scent. Persistent nuances of vanilla and ylang-ylang and an intense dry down to tonka bean and sandalwood, make this paradox what I wear for 10 summers now.


Pierre Bourdon created SUN in 1989 for German fashion brand Jil Sander.


Top notes: African orange flower, Fruity notes, Bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Cassis, Palisander rosewood

Middle notes: Rose, Orris root, Heliotrope, Carnation, Ylang-ylang, Lily of the valley

Base notes: Styrax, Amber, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk, Sandalwood

SUN is available as Eau de toilette in 30 ml and 75 ml. The 30ml flacon costs 23 Euro.




Less complicated than SUN, SUN Men is a fresh spicy fragrance blending ideally all its notes across the structure. Opening introduces fresh bergamot. Then it progresses to spices until it dries down to a warm musky scent. I would classify it as an everyday, -to go option.


SUN Men was created by Beatrice Piquet and Alain Astori.


Top notes: Rosemary and Bergamot.

Middle notes: Nutmeg and Cardamom.

Base notes: Sandalwood and Musk.

SUN Men is available as Eau de toilette in 40 ml, 75 ml, 125 ml and 200 ml. The 40ml bottle costs 33 Euro.


 infusion d'iris


Utterly classy and modern, I predict Infusion D’ Iris to be sold for years and years. This gem is as a floral-woody scent on a powdery background. The opening is a soft transition from citruses and iris to woods. Infusion D’ Iris whispers the swan song with galbanum and vetiver, always under the iris clave. I want to experiment layering it under Prada Amber pour Homme.


Daniela Roche Andrier of Givaudan, is the composer of this perfume. A traditional method of iris distillation is the inspiration of its name. During this method, iris is kept soaked for six months before extraction.


Top notes: African orange flower, Neroli, Orange, Mandarine.

Middle notes: Iris, Mastic, Galbanum.

Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Incense, Benzoin.

Infusion d’Iris comes as Parfum in 3.5ml and 7.5ml, as EDP 50ml, 100ml and 200ml and as EDT and has bath products too. Eau de parfum 50 ml costs 75 Euro.




Beautifully crafted, this is a long lasting, soapy and softly woody-balmy scent. I will dare to say it is a rather unisex perfume. First sniff takes you to neroli and a powdery iris. Time plays with Infusion’s vetiver, olibanium, benzoin and cedar notes, bringing back and forth the iris card.


What a Duchess is without her Duke? Following the success of the first, female Infusion, Daniela Andrier and Prada released a year after Infusion D’Homme, a fragrance that has been worked for years. Infusion duo basically is the second fragrance launch from Prada.


Top notes: Mandarine, Tunisian Neroli.

Middle notes: Iris, Vetiver, Virginian cedar, Galbanum.

Base notes: Powdery notes, Olibanium, Benzoin.

Infusion D’Homme comes as Eau de Toilette in 50 ml and 100ml and has a bath set too. 50ml of the juice cost 57 Euro.




As I mentioned in a previous post, this fragrance is a journey. For whoever grew up near fig trees and want to preserve this recollection throughout summer, this unique juice is a must! Lilt goes on as very green and aromatic, opening with freshly cut fig and green notes and evolving to fruits wrapped in musk. It is long lasting and has strong sillage.


Lilt belongs to the first batch of creations by Alexandra De Montfort, along with Chatoyant, Vespers and Inspiration. As Madame De Montfort stated, the purpose of these perfumes is to awaken and enhance memories.


Top notes: Green leaves, Fig leaf.

Middle notes: Peach, Coconut, Violet.

Base notes: Musk, Vetiver.

Lilt comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml and costs 82 Euro.



bronze goddess 


Dangerously sexy and entirely tropical, Bronze Goddess is the indisputable scent of the summer. Solar, warm and milky, it gives me a prominent coconut note followed by a blend of perfectly balanced citruses and florals. At this point I want to announce that this is the first and only perfume I like from the Estee range and express a deep wish of mine: to find a tanning lotion carrying this sublime scent.


Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche is the 2013 edition of the annual Bronze Goddess tradition that started in 2007 with Azuree Soleil.


Top notes: Mandarin, Sicilian Citron, Calabrese Bergamot, Orange, Lavender, Lemon tree leaves

Middle notes: Milk, Indian jasmine, Grapefruit, Pink Lily, Orange blossom, Tunisian Neroli

Base notes: Amber, Musk, Iris, Woody notes

The Eau fraiche comes in 100 ml and costs 45 Euro. There is body oil accompanying the release.


addict eau DELICEjpg 


The perfect girly scent for a luminous summer… This is what a more Barbie focused, Kubrick’s Lolita might have worn in that hot, sticky, 50’s summer.

Addict Eau Delice has a fruity, floral and musky scent. The perfume opens with a splash of sweetness from cranberry, carrying on to freshness from jasmine and ylang-ylang. After some time Addict Eau Delice concludes with creamy musk.

For my Dutch readers, Marjolein reviews extensively the perfume launch in her Another Fashion Lover website.


This perfume is a sweeter, fruitier version of the original, interpreted by Francois Demachy. The original is Addict, created on 2002 by Thierry Wasser.


Top notes: Cranberry, Bergamot, Orange, and Cherry

Middle notes: Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian and Indian Jasmine, Rose, Bitter Almond

Base notes: White Musk, Cedar, and Vanilla

Addict Eau Delice come as Eau de Toilette in 20ml, 50 ml and 100ml and 20ml costs 50 Euro. If you are looking for a bath line, have a look at the original Addict’s range.




All you need to notice the first-degree kinship is few minutes after the opening. Having prominent aldehydic notes, Dia and legendary Chanel No5 can be first or second cousins. What differentiates them though, is how they evolve over time.

Dia is regal and undoubtedly suits a romantic yet conscious, a true lady. It is a clean composition that morphs from floral, to lightly woody, to soapy. Though not my type, I certainly appreciate its depth and complexity.


Jean-Claude Ellena crafted Dia in 2002.


Top notes: Fig, Bergamot, Sage, Violet leaves, Tarragon, Cyclamen, Aldehydes.

Middle Notes: Orris root, Turkish Rose oil, Peach blossom, Peony, Orange  blossom.

Base notes: Heliotrope, Guaiac wood, Incense, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White Musk, Cedarwood.

Dia comes as Extrait de Parfum in 50 ml for 310 Euro, as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 200 euro and in 100 ml for 235 euro. Dia has a full bath and body range and candles.




Ciel is a pot of gardenia, at the higher spot of your balcony. There, where it can grab the woody scents of the nearby grove in the air and dress in them, when it pleases so. Ciel as a name is just the password to summer. Other than that it does not resemble any aquatic element. Ciel is a flowery-woody, ethereal composition that worth attention.


Ciel was launched in summer 2003. 


Top notes: Cyclamen, Gardenia, Violet leaf.

Middle notes: Peach blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Water lily.

Base notes: Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Insence, Cedarwood.

Ciel comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 190 Euro and in 100ml for 220 Euro.


 opus III


Opus III is the ideal companion to those afternoon and evening summer walks in the woods, villages, parks. Warm woods and bright flowers, as the scent itself: a dry floral and woody composition with a sweet and powdery dry down. If you are a keen violet lover, then this perfume is for you. Violet is the definite protagonist in all the moments of the scent’s unwrapping. It reminds me a lot Guerlain Insolence, until half its longevity.


Opus III is a creation by Karin Vinchon Spehner. The perfume is launch number three, belonging to the luxurious Library Collection of Amouage.


Top notes: Mimosa, Broom, Carnation, Nutmeg, Thyme.

Heart notes: Violet, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, African Orange Blossom.

Base notes: Ambrette, Musk, Papyrus, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Frankincense.

Eau de Parfum 100ml for 275 Euro.


grey vetiver


Vetiver grass smells quite intense and aggressive. Grey Vetiver is the most polite interpretation Vetiver can have. It opens with tuned down-not so sparkly citruses and involves to a delicious light spicy-woody compilation of nutmeg, oakmoss, warm wood and most of all vetiver! It has moderate power and longetivity and I consider it a great tool in layering perfumes.


In this section, I want to give extra credit to the impeccable art deco flacon, which is a jewel on its own…


Top notes: Orange flower, Grapefruit.

Middle notes: Sage, Nutmeg.

Base notes: Vetiver, Warm wood, Orris root, Amberwood, Oakmoss.

Grey Vetiver comes as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 75 Euro and in 100ml for 104 Euro. The range also includes after shave balm.



ombre de hyacinth


This has to be my third most favourite creation out of the Private Blend range. Beautiful, aromatic hyacinth is the centre of attention, evolving nicely with violet and jasmine. Galbanum gives it a bitter taste but it definitely is a green, earthy perfume.


Ombre de Hyacinth is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.


Top notes: Galbanum, Violet leaf, Magnolia petals and Olibanum.

Middle notes: Hyacinth, Pink pepper and Jasmine.

Base notes: Galbanum, Benzoin and Musk.

Ombre De Hyacinth belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.



lys fume


When I picked up the bottle to smell Lys Fume, I was hoping to find in it something similar to Guerlain’s Lys Soleia (included in the same post, just below) or something smokey, tropical and irresistible. To my surprise I found neither the one, nor the other.

Lys Fume is all about lily in nucleus and ylang ylang and vanilla in orbit to complement the protagonist. The reason why I added this perfume in this post is because it is still a very nice scent to sport in summer mornings.


Lys Fume is part of the floral Jardin Noir quartet, released on 2012.


Top notes: Italian mandarin, Pink pepper, Turmeric and Nutmeg.

Middle notes: White lily, Ylang-ylang, Artemisia and Rum.

Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Labdanum, Styrax, Oak, Vanilla.

Lys Fume belongs to the Private Blend Collection and is available as Eau de Parfum in 50 ml for 170 Euro and in 250ml for 409 Euro.



lys soleia


This juice has something narcotic in it. In every spray, time stops, a breeze passes indolently through the palm leaves and the watering machine quenches the thirst of flowers…

Sun, Lilies, ylang- ylang and tuberose dipped in vanilla and dried on musk. Highly recommended for morning hours and beach excursions!


Released in 2012, Lys Soleia was composed by Thierry Wasser.


Top notes: Bergamot, Amalfi lemon and Palm leaves.

Heart notes: Lily, Ylang-ylang, and Tropical fruits.

Base notes: Tuberose, Vanilla and White Musk.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro and in 125 ml.



nerolia bianca


Juicy, Mouthwatering, sparkling orange! Very citrusy, highly aromatic, this is a beautiful composition that goes nicely with carefree mood… Highly recommended if you are a smoker, as the citruses neutralizes the smell of tobacco.


Nerolia Bianca is Thierry Wasser’s attempt to create a perfume extracting every bit of a bitter orange tree.


Main notes: Orange blossom, Bitter orange, Orange, Leaves of petit grain, Neroli, Twigs.

It is available as Eau de Toilette in 75ml for 51Euro.


tiare mimosa 


Brighter than the sun, this scent is sensual beyond limits! Mimosa, tiare and lemon blend perfectly with each other during the opening and throughout the experience, leading to a sweet, musky trail.

Highly recommended for layering during summer vacations under a musk- peppery scent and for brides to be!


To know more about Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line visit Perfumeshrine’s Elena Vosnaki article here.


Main notes: Mimose, Tiare flower, Amalfi lemon, Musk, Vanilla, Pink pepper.

I hope you can still find Tiare Mimose in some big cosmetics stores, small corner perfumeries and definitely around the web. Prices start from 60 Euro for 75ml.



cologne parfumer


It is uplifting and clean! Green, almost grassy notes mix well with polite citruses. As it is Eau de Cologne, longevity is not great. Perfect for freshening up and layering with woody perfumes. For more details watch Pelle Suringa, who is the man behind Geurenland, in this video reviewing the Cologne.


Thierry Wasser originally created this Cologne for himself. The creation happened in the same era as of Idylle, during his time off.


Main notes: African orange flower, Citruses, Amalfi lemon, Rosemary, Lavender, Mint.

La Cologne Du Parfumer is an Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 90Euro.



 eau de cologne imperiale Eau-de-Cologne-Imperiale-Guerlain-Parfum_high


This is sparkling, green and very yellow! Citruses here are loud and they are capable of waking you up in a sniff of a nose. Longevity is poor, however is an excellent choice to preserve the freshness after a cool shower and to layer over it citrusy, light woody fragrances. You may also use it for its original purpose: battle the headache. Simply damp the juice on a cool piece of cloth and keep it on your forehead for 10 minutes.


Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, Founder of Maison Guerlain, undertook the responsibility of crafting a remedy for Empress Eugenie’s, wife of Napoleon III, severe headaches. The alluring creation ensured Pierre Francois a conspicuous place inside royal houses and the prestigious title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer.


Top notes: Orange, Citruses, Lemon verbena, Neroli, Bergamot and Lemon.

Base notes: Rosemary, Tonka bean and Cedar.

The historic perfume comes as Eau de Cologne in 100ml for 85Euro.


shalimar parfum initial l'eau


Firstly we have to agree that Shalimar Parfum Initial range stands off from its progenitor, Shalimar. Then let’s admire the same exact materials used in both the old and new fragrances, but in a twisted row.

Shalimar Parfum Initial l’Eau is a feast of spring and is a lot less powdery and sweet than its original and Shalimar itself. The addition of grapefruit and flowers, such as lily of the valley, hyacinth and more, in the citrusy- floral-oriental composition, give a fresher and lighter result. Iris and bergamot are always present. It all ends to a warm, creamy result with the help of vanilla.


With Shalimar Parfum Initial range, composer Thierry Wasser aimed to reformulate for younger audiences the cornerstone of Guerlain fragrances, Shalimar. The original Shalimar is a Jacques Guerlain creation of 1925. Shalimar Parfum Initial Eau de Parfum was launched in 2011 and its l’Eau version in 2012. This year there is L’Eau Si Sensuelle version, which corresponds to L’Eau, bottled in glacé.


Top notes: Orange, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Neroli

Heart notes: Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Freesia, Hyacinth

Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka bean.

The perfume is available as Eau de Toilette in 40ml for 45 Euro, 60 ml and 100 ml.





The first time I experienced the original blend of Jicky I picked up a fight with my friend Maxime. I debated hard on how overestimated this scent was, strongly influenced of its rough opening, and I was wrong. The second time I applied Jicky, I was alone and I had all the time I needed, to watch it evolving deeply.

I feel it was a progressive release for its era and I imagine it was a favourite among some type of witty, multi traveled, unprejudiced ladies, who were enjoying high social statuses and even though they did not show how powerful they were, they could crush you blandly.

Every time I sniff Jicky something green and animalic hits me, until it dries down to a balmy-leathery trail. Jicky is a very complex construction, yet an alive piece of history.


Jicky was a revolutionary creation, being one of the first perfumes including synthetic materials. Aime Guerlain composed Jicky in 1889, inspired by his love for a girl he met, during his academic years in England. The flacon reminisces the original 19th century’s medicinal bottles and the stopper that of a champagne’s bottle.


Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Rosemary and Bergamot.

Heart Notes: Tonka bean, Lavender, Orris root, Jasmine, Basil.

Base Notes: Vanilla, Opoponax, Benzoin, Brazilian rosewood, Amber, Sandalwood, Leather, Spices.

Jicky is available as Parfum in 30ml for 270Euro, as Eau de Parfum

in 50 ml for 86 Euro and as Eau de Toilette in 93ml for 98 Euro.





Mayotte is beautiful! It has an intoxicating white floral-woody scent that gets better and better as it dries. In the beginning you get tuberose and ylang ylang with hints of vanilla and at the finale soft woods that preserve the tropical element.

I want to imagine it on bronzed skin, dressed in a strawberry red sexy dress. If you will have your vacations on an island, Mayotte is the perfect choice to create an olfactory memory album with.


Mayotte was named after the complex of two small French islands and islets, located over Madagascar and it belongs to the Parisiennes collection of Guerlain. In 2000, Jean Paul Guerlain created Mahora, a perfume that resembles Mayotte intensely. If you were a fan of the now discontinued Mahora, then give Mayotte a try. 


Top: Frangipani and Neroli.

Heart: Ylang-Ylang, Indian jasmine, Tuberose.

Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Vetiver.

Mayotte is available as Eau de Parfum in 125ml for 223Euro.





Paris-Moscow is a citrusy-flower scent with a hint of woods. Tonka bean is in the middle of a mystical ceremony having citruses and plum dancing around it. As the perfume dries down I sense vanilla, light green notes and lemon. The grand finale happens with musk and jasmine in a creamy duet.

I do not know if the scent symbolizes Moscow in any way, but I do know that it could be a reference to a warm summer in Paris.


Les Voyages Olfactif Collection, or else the Olfactive Journeys, is a compilation of five –up to now- fragrances/ postcards, each inspired by the rhythm of five different capitals: Moscow, New York, Tokyo, London, Shanghai.


Top notes: Absinth, Lemon, Bergamot, Red currant, Plum, Pine needles.

Heart notes: Jasmine.

Base notes: Tonka bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, White musk.

The perfume is available as Eau de Parfum, in the travel and aeroplane-friendly quantity of 100ml for 178Euro.

Which is the scent of your Summer?

Disclaimer: None of the pictures in this post have taken by me.


A pedagogical trip by Guerlain, into perfumes’ creation

If you are a zealous scent lover, then this post is dedicated to you…

Guerlain and its parent company LVMH organize a pedagogical tour at Orphin, where the renown House’s production headquarters are located. If you happen to visit or you are located in France, mark your calendars for Satuday 15th of June at 10 am.

With Thierry Wasser as host, the 6 hours visit will surely be a mythical initiation to the art of perfumery; from maceration tanks and filling, to sealing and barbichage.

For reservations and more information visit here  


photo extracted from lvmh website